Ebay Turbo Bolt On For Rb25

[GTSBoy]

lets see...stock ecu with ,stock turbo on high boost vs hiflow turbo on low boost.....which one is going to be faster?

Yeah, but ignoring which one makes the most fasts, the highflow approach actually solves his problem, which is that he does not want to buy and kill another stock turbo. Which is fair enough. Once you kill a couple you may well get a bit twitchy about doing it again. And the highflow at least sets him up to be able to go forward with the car, instead of setting him back to the start.

[ARTZ]

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now

[AngryRB]

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

Edited October 11, 2013 by AngryRB

[ARTZ]

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

[WMDC35]

/\ as above, could go the hypergear & check it properly if you're willing to sort it if it's not happy

[GTSBoy]

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

[niZmO_Man]

Doesn't quite solve the problem of the ceramic turbine going poop though. And plastic comp wheel also likes to go poop.

Yeah, but if you're running 10psi through them, they will last (assuming second hand turbo is in good condition). Note the OP has standard ECU and wants a $400-500 bolt on solution to a blown turbo. How he got the turbo to blow in the first place? Either debris or spinning them past their design.

If OP decides to go with a high-flow, might as well do the ECU and get it tuned. Ebay turbos are a hit and miss (judging from what I've read and seen). You have to wonder how much engineering has gone into a cheap ebay turbo.

The Hypergear sounds good doesn't it?

[GTSBoy]

Standard turbos die at random. Sure, most die from being sped up, but there are some that die in the driveway. Lottery. FWIW, I'm running a wound up standard one on the NEO and the one on my RB20 ran at 14+psi for more than 10 years (and is still going as far as I know). Still a lottery.

[ARTZ]

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

[AngryRB]

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

Edited October 11, 2013 by AngryRB

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

I was being stupid and wound up the HKS2535 on a stock ECU, didn't even get to past 0.7bar and it would "R&R" at 0.4 bar she was alright, actuator pressure that is

[WMDC35]

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

nice wrap up for the OP right there!

[FordyR31]

I had an R34 turbo and rb20 actuator on my car for years and made between 190-210 rwkw depending on the dyno, obviously that was with a tune but as far as your budget, it's a good option. If you can afford a little more, a rebuild is a better option for what you want now with new steel wheels and core, room to move later when you do want to tune and more boost. I am reading a lot of good results and happy customers of Hypergears work in both rebuilds, hi flows and the other turbo's. Work out if you are stuck to a $500 budget or if you can save a bit more, then your choice should be made.