Rb26 Build Learned So Much

[MJTru]

Well in short after I figured out all my wiring issues with getting my rb26 into my gts4. It ran great for about a half an hour. Then as everyone knows these motors are prone to have oil issues. My oil pump died and took the main bearings and crank with it. The head seems to look in great shape cams and all.

The motor cam from japan with hks 272 cams, and sprockets, with MLS head gasket, and fully stock bottom end.

Well im starting a new engine build. I'm planning on buying a used crank thats still in good shape then have a crank collar installed. Im planing on using ALC race bearing. Main and head studs all by ARP. Im going to use wisco forge pistons and eagle H beam rods also (Stock bore) a 86mm bore at 1.3 mm thick MLS head gasket. The oil pump im planing on getting is a tomie one with the bigger gears and external presaure regulator. I'm also going to install 1.1m block oil restrictors. That would take care of the block.

For the head im planing on smoothing out those exhaust bumps, and cleaning up each ports by the valves that are left by the machining process by nissan right under the valve seats. I will check the valve guides for clearance and reuse if they are still good. Next im planing on using supertech springs and retainers. Retaining the stock rb26 valves. Then I'm going to use those hks 272 cams and cam sprokes. Finally im going to install a head oil return in the back of the head and plumb it to the rear turbo oil drain that is currently blocked off.

I have a mild steel manifold running precsion 7675 turbo. Top mount. I got gtr fuel tank and pump with 1200cc injectors. Ecu is a Power FC D-jetro. And all the other little stuff.

Please let me know if there is anything else that I might need to get this off the ground. Im aiming for like 600 hp the very most.

Thanks mates.

[GTScotT]

Your turbo is overkill for 600whp come back to a 6466 (even a 6262 will get you there if you plan to have top quality supporting mods) if you want to stay with a PT, they are good value. Alternatively you can opt for a FP 3586HTA which should be easy for you to get a hold of in FL.

Regarding your engine build things sound fine for the 600whp level. The only change I would make is the rods and pistons. Manley rods are almost identical to Eagles in price and appearance, but that is about as far as the similarities go for the finished product. The Manley rods are much better quality and come as a weight matched set, the price difference is under $50. As for pistons I have used both Wiseco and CP and much preferred the CP's.

When ordering do yourself the favour and order with upgraded bits. Order the pistons with the moly 9130 european metal pins and the rods with the +625 bolts. CP pistons with 9130 pins are good for 1,500HP and the rod bolts will help if you do decide to get a little more out of the available flow.

Also, buy a micrometer, crank degree kit and rod bolt stretch gauge, they will prove invaluable.

[MJTru]

I thought the same thing about the turbo. Those FP turbo are very costly. I'll go with the PT 6262 with a v band T 4 hot side. I guess ill have to remake the down pipe or just mod it.

Thanks for letting me know about your thoughts on the rods and bolts. I never new that I could get them with those and will look into it. I cant wait to start the build.

In yhe past I remember someone link to a place that can supply me with a rb26 crank and installed the collar for me. I looked all over and cant seem to find it. Do you think you know of anyone that can help me out in this area.

What I was going to pay for the PT7576 journal I can now get the PT 6262 ball bearing. Thanks again. Its been an eye opener.

Thanks mate.

[GTScotT]

No problem.

Regarding the crank with collar try to source yourself an R33 GTR crank. They come factory with a longer crank drive and do not need a collar

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16277&cat=544&page=1

[MJTru]

Take a look at this GTScotT

http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/TheSkyLife?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skylife4ever.com%2F2011%2F01%2Freal-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html%3Fm%3D1

Tell me what you think. According to this even the r33 crank collar is flawed. Well do some reading and tell me your thoughts please.

[djr81]

It isnt flawed. It just needs to fit properly like any other machined component. So measure things before you put them together.

[GTScotT]

Yep that article has been around for a long while.

djr81 is correct, you need to measure the tolerances as you are assembling, like all things. It would be forgivable to ignore it, as a factory crank should fit a factory pump.. But the issue is there. To confirm, you would also need to do this with an aftermarket crank collar.

In recent discussions it was noted that plate welding and machining to exact tolerances was the best way. For me I agree here, but need to stress the tolerance of the pump gear to their own housing needs to be considered also. Plate welding the drive surface can be catastrophic if you go too far, so be careful with your measurements if you do go this way.

What is wrong with your existing crank? Is it cracked or not salvageable?

[MJTru]

No my crank isnt salvageable. But thanks for all your inputs. This has always been my concern when building rb motors. I have done this on two rb25 and I have yet to see one fail.(Collar) But I really dont push the motors hard like drifters hitting the redline or fuel cut all the time. Only when I drag race and on some occasion hit the red like.

Well I even was thinking about going external oil pump set up but damn it exspensive. In the very worst case ill just buy a gtr crank like the one you showed me GTScotT, and run the tomie oil pump on that.

Ill keep everyone posted as parts start to arrive.

Thanks mates

[KiwiRS4T]

Use Loctite on the screws

Take a look at this GTScotT
http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/TheSkyLife?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skylife4ever.com%2F2011%2F01%2Freal-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html%3Fm%3D1

Tell me what you think. According to this even the r33 crank collar is flawed. Well do some reading and tell me your thoughts please.

[MJTru]

Seeing how im getting the Tomie oil pump do I still need to take the screws out and put loctitie on them. ????

[GTScotT]

Its always best to check parts like that, so yes crack off the screws one at a time and reassemble with loctite.

Also, a few years back a friend did similar with his GTR. After much research he went with an OEM Nissan long nose crank and a JUN pump. The motor is still out there somewhere doing the duties as intended.

[MJTru]

Yes im planning on getting the crank with the ling oil pump drive. But after reading alot I really would like to go with the tomie oil pump cause of the external oil pressure regulator.

[MJTru]

Do you knowbthe torque on the tomie oil pump bolts. Screws.

[MJTru]

Do you know the torque on the tomie oil pump bolts. Screws. GTScotT what do you mean when you say +625 bolts for the rods. Regaurding the piston pins o figure its just stronger. Right??? But that +625 got me stumped.

[whizzn]

I believe there a stronger rated bolt that will handle around 625+hp, that's individual cylinder hp to I think so more than capable for serious builds

That's my understanding on it anyway, could be wrong though

[MJTru]

Wow. Thats hard to believe. 625 per cylinder. Sounds fake to me from a 2.6l motor. Lol. It cant be. But I could be wrong. Can someone bring light to this, cause the moly 9130 seems like old standards cause they are advertising higher numbers than 9130 moly. There like 92-- I can't remember the standards off hand. But I know the number are higher. Plus the rods comes with arp 2000 bolts they seem to be better than +625 bolts what ever thst may be.

I truly have learnt alot from this site and would give all my credits to this site only. But to find out these number's mean nothing is hurtful.

Please clarify for me.

[Ben C34]

Yes im planning on getting the crank with the ling oil pump drive. But after reading alot I really would like to go with the tomie oil pump cause of the external oil pressure regulator.

Another option is modify the sump to allow access to relief valve without taking sump off.

[MJTru]

Wow I have never heard or saw a moded sump to access the valve.

Im loking at getting some valve springs for these hks 272 cams. I want to go with the supertwch stuff but im lost toas what to get. Any ideas on which ones totoo with. ?????

[MJTru]

Ok these are the items I just ordered.

Oem n1 nissan crank.

Acl main and rod bearings

Rear main seals

2x cam seals

Supertech valve stem seals

1.3mm 86mm bore cometic head gasket.

Main studs

Head studs

Head oil drain return

1.2mm block restictors. X3

Tomorrow i will be getting the tomie oil pump

And the day after it will be the cp pistons and manly rods.

Then finally I will buy the PT 6262 turbo.

Thanks again mates.

[scotty nm35]

Wow. Thats hard to believe. 625 per cylinder. Sounds fake to me from a 2.6l motor. Lol. It cant be. But I could be wrong. Can someone bring light to this, cause the moly 9130 seems like old standards cause they are advertising higher numbers than 9130 moly. There like 92-- I can't remember the standards off hand. But I know the number are higher. Plus the rods comes with arp 2000 bolts they seem to be better than +625 bolts what ever thst may be.

I truly have learnt alot from this site and would give all my credits to this site only. But to find out these number's mean nothing is hurtful.

Please clarify for me.

625+ is a new ARP high tensile stainless, of similar tensile strength to the older L19's but with less corrosion issues. Both are far better than the standard ARP2000 steel studs/bolts, but cost 3 times the price too.