Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello I am a new bloke, am about 35 years of age, sell Suzuki (cars) for a living in Brighton. I get a work car (Swift Sport usually) so want something old and cool to look at in the shed and take for a run to the hills every now and then. I have done a bit of drag racing in V8's in the past and I had a lot of fun, so might consider that too. I am pretty keen on getting an R32 GTS T of all things - I realise this is near the bottom rung of Skyline ownership but as a pure driving experence I prefer lightweight, rear drive cars... Plus I like the look of 'em. Plus I reckon the RB20det is one of the best sounding engines ever. I was looking at S15's for a while there but in the end I decided the SR sounds about a tenth as good as an RB and that was important, plus I reckon I can get a decent 32 for a bit less cash and leave some aside for fixing it up.


I had a silver 4 door manual r32 GTS T Type M when I were a young 18 year old back in NZ and ultimately that would be what I'd have again, but I'm not too fussed. I like the stock rims more than any others I've seen, and I don't like any body kit aside from the little boot spoiler. Not even the Type M side pods - although they apparently disguise rust quite well. :-) I prefer to keep the mods to just breathing, cooling and a bit of tuning, I find anything more tends to turn into a bit of a money pit. Am also a fan of cars lowered slightly on stock rims, dunno why. Probably because the car's designers knew what would suit the car best I guess. I do concede plenty of stock rims are rubbish tho.

Once thing I've noticed looking at Skylines is that auto cars are heaps cheaper than manuals, and they often seem to be a bit less messed with and thrashed, so I might consider an auto if it was otherwise pretty mint. I quite like auto turbo 6's (ie XR6 Turbo's) It's fun when they kick down, plus they're better for drag racing. I also get a sore left knee too which sucks with heavy clutches and whatnot. (The Swift has the lightest clutch ever)

I can always convert it to manual down the track can't I...

There is a very nice R32 GTS T on Carsales at the moment that a Dealer wants about $14k for - ha ha ha. Yes it is nice and stuff but geez, that is quite a lot. Maybe they're anticipating it'll be a future classic?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433341-hello-from-elwood/
Share on other sites

Hello I am a new bloke, am about 35 years of age, sell Suzuki (cars) for a living in Brighton. I get a work car (Swift Sport usually) so want something old and cool to look at in the shed and take for a run to the hills every now and then. I have done a bit of drag racing in V8's in the past and I had a lot of fun, so might consider that too. I am pretty keen on getting an R32 GTS T of all things - I realise this is near the bottom rung of Skyline ownership but as a pure driving experence I prefer lightweight, rear drive cars... Plus I like the look of 'em. Plus I reckon the RB20det is one of the best sounding engines ever. I was looking at S15's for a while there but in the end I decided the SR sounds about a tenth as good as an RB and that was important, plus I reckon I can get a decent 32 for a bit less cash and leave some aside for fixing it up.

I had a silver 4 door manual r32 GTS T Type M when I were a young 18 year old back in NZ and ultimately that would be what I'd have again, but I'm not too fussed. I like the stock rims more than any others I've seen, and I don't like any body kit aside from the little boot spoiler. Not even the Type M side pods - although they apparently disguise rust quite well. :-) I prefer to keep the mods to just breathing, cooling and a bit of tuning, I find anything more tends to turn into a bit of a money pit. Am also a fan of cars lowered slightly on stock rims, dunno why. Probably because the car's designers knew what would suit the car best I guess. I do concede plenty of stock rims are rubbish tho.

Once thing I've noticed looking at Skylines is that auto cars are heaps cheaper than manuals, and they often seem to be a bit less messed with and thrashed, so I might consider an auto if it was otherwise pretty mint. I quite like auto turbo 6's (ie XR6 Turbo's) It's fun when they kick down, plus they're better for drag racing. I also get a sore left knee too which sucks with heavy clutches and whatnot. (The Swift has the lightest clutch ever)

I can always convert it to manual down the track can't I...

There is a very nice R32 GTS T on Carsales at the moment that a Dealer wants about $14k for - ha ha ha. Yes it is nice and stuff but geez, that is quite a lot. Maybe they're anticipating it'll be a future classic?

Welcome aboard the SAU forums... Like your taste of motor - I definitely rate any rb over the sr's :)

Good luck with your car hunt.

Ps: wouldn't pay 14k for an r32 GTS-t... Another 5k and you'll get the r32 gtr ;)

Thanks mate. Yeah it is rough GTR money they're asking... Crazy town.

Welcome aboard the SAU forums... Like your taste of motor - I definitely rate any rb over the sr's :)

Good luck with your car hunt.

Ps: wouldn't pay 14k for an r32 GTS-t... Another 5k and you'll get the r32 gtr ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...