Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure you'll find the R33 everything you hope it will be. The key issue is to be out there competing, regularly. :yes:

I'm not a big fan of rotaries, but the chassis Mazda chose to install it into is a pretty handy piece of work.

Looking forward to the build thread to keep us updated.

As a local, I've got most of the photographers who go there added on Facebook. There are pics and even a video... It didn't look too bad. It's not a very fast part of the track, just a tricky & tight corner called the second loop where you have to push hard if you want a decent time. Tthere's no room for error at Mt Cotton. I've been up that bank as well many years ago, just a bit further along...

1393707_358910360912349_1397112951_n.jpg

full gallery: http://www.trackphotos.com.au/p349113467

Well that's got to throw a wet blanket over a long trip from home.

Sort of looks like it was browsing the scenery rather than munching into it... :no:

At least Fatz had the good sense to apply alcohol to the wound. Maybe Neil can give us an update in his event thread?

Im considering getting rid of the gtr to do this as a cheaper option for a weekend/track/hillclimb car, can get the lotus super 7 kit cars that are road legal too...

would have to be alot of fun i can only imagine....

Unfortunately, a lot of the ones I see people start building end up costing way more than a GT-R!

Unfortunately, a lot of the ones I see people start building end up costing way more than a GT-R!

Tidy complete & registered ones can be picked up for much less than the build cost though... and the real savings is in the running costs.

Skyline + Spares + Trailer = 2000kg - which generally means dedicated tow rig etc - or at best you have to put up with a truck for a daily driver.

Clubman + Spares + Trailer = as little as 750kg - so you can tow it with pretty much anything - or drive it there - even in full race spec the cops just give me a nod and 'cool car, on your way fella' before running off to flag down a Jap import to defect.

13 - 15" race tyres for a clubman cost half as much per corners as what you would be chucking on a skyline etc and last way longer.

Likewise brakes - a fraction of the price and last for seasons rather than days.

Fuel - Goes twice as far in a car half the weight.

Edited by samstain

It can be easy to get carried away with the building costs - but often this is 'because they can' not 'because they have to'

Quoted for truth.

Look at a lot of "track car" build threads anywhere on the internet and it's astounding the amount of hard core race gear people are putting into their 3 - weekends - a - year track day specials, when standard or off the shelf upgrades will often suffice

As far as cheap running costs go - totally agree there, too. The Civic may not be nearly as quick as a turbo Skyline or Clubman (on tarmac, anyway - on gravel it holds its own against anything 2WD) the reliability and low running costs mean I can enjoy it whenever time permits. No point spending your entire budget on building the car and not being able to afford to run it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...