Blitz Boost Controller Issues/ Tune Up

[That Nick Guy]

Hey,

I'm new to the import scene, and have recently purchased a 32 w/rb25det as a daily (wanting to keep it legal and just as a daily, not chasing massive hp.).

The car came with a Blitz boost Controller, but it was not 'plumbed in' (previous owners words).

I have managed to read the manual online, and get it displaying boost pressures, but I have a strange feeling that I've either; misinterpreted the instructions and hooked it up incorrectly, or I have hooked it up correctly and set the unit incorrectly.

I have intentionally set the limit low -12psi- (so as to avoid damage to my engine or turbo), but I don't think it's good for the car to do what it's doing now.

The big problem I'm having is that, when I accelerate hard, the car backfires and sputters and seems to cut boost.

It is reading that I am getting up to 18.9psi, and I'm assuming that it's not actually running that pressure.

My two main questions are:

What boost pressure does a standard rb25det run at (and what is safe for it to run to on standard everything-ecu, internals and turbo etc)?

And, could anybody recommend a tuner/ mechanic who could tune up my car/ program my blitz boost controller properly?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, That Nick Guy (SAU Noob.)

[MatthewT85]

for stock r33 turbo, factory runs 7psi. can be a little higher with bolt ons, mine runs 9 with turbo back and fmic.

max boost on a stock turbo is around 12psi, there is boost cut on stock ecu but i cant rememeber what it is

im sure others will be able to help more.

Edited October 16, 2013 by MatthewT85

[Got a Pulsar]

Yeah, stock ECU might go into Rich & Retard if you go much above 10psi.

Turbo may handle 12psi, may Blow at 7psi... Luck of the draw.

Sounds like it may be going up to 18psi so I would be trying to set that sucker around 10psi and see if the problem stops.

Could also be partially, Sparkplug / gap & old coil related too. (or a combo of all this)

Sell the EBC and buy a 10psi Rb20 actuator.

profit???

[GTSBoy]

I concur with the above. If the display is showing 18+ psi then it is probably actually making that much. If so, then it will definitely fart and carry on. Just going into R&R will do so, but it will also cut on excessive load signal (it's not a boost cut, but it works effectively as if it was a boost cut).

I have done exactly this on my Neo 25. Accidentally set my boost controller a bit too aggressively while setting it up. Hit 1.2 bar in 2nd gear and the ECU called a halt to proceedings. Later, with that problem corrected, set to about 12 psi, it will go into noticable R&R when running in higher gears at that sort of boost.

[That Nick Guy]

Thanks for the info guys.

It was actually that I had misunderstood the boost controller and set it to external waste gate instead of actuator (I didn't know the difference, but do now!). That significantly reduced the issue that I was having (getting to 4000rpm and having the car buck, spit and backfire, with the boost gauge reading between 16-18psi). Now that I have it set correctly, it is running a LOT better!

I have also recently changed the spark plugs, and it appears as though they may have been in there since new (maybe, not, but they were definitely OLD and VERY WORN!) I still have the same issue of hard acceleration equaling boost cut like qualities, but now it happens at about 5500rpm, instead of 5000rpm (after changing spark plugs).

I also noticed that, when replacing the spark plugs, a few of my coil pack covers/ rubbers were warped and out of shape. I'm not too sure, but I believe that may be causing some of the issue, so fortunately, I have a mate giving me his old oem coil packs. I have also been considering purchasing aftermarket coil packs to replace the oem ones.

I have had a bit of a look on ebay, and the majority of spitfire coil packs are about $500 ex Japan, or more from Australian sellers.

Are spitfire coil packs really the best way to go..? Are they actually the best brand to use in terms of performance? Is there a cheaper alternative that still does the same job and delivers the same performance?

Thanks again for the info guys, Any further help would be appreciated.

That Nick Guy

[GTSBoy]

Splitfires would probably be the best quality and value overall aftermarket option. By this I mean that the other aftermarket coils available in the same (or cheaper) price range are not as good and have a larger proportion of failures than Splitfires do.

The other option is to get new OEM coils. These used to be hideously expensive but are now available in the same price range as Splitfires. It is hard to know which is technically better than the other....but it is probably the case that Splitfires and OEMs are approx the same quality and performance.

[Ben C34]

Yellow jacket do sell just the boots. I am reasonably sure they would fit your coils, but wether it is worth it or not I don't know.

[boostn0199]

just buy a set of spits or oem your only doing it once and u will not need another set most likely for the life of the car so its not a big deal spending 600 or so.

[That Nick Guy]

Thanks again for all of your help, fellow SAU members.

I have finally managed to track down what the initial issue was (after sorting out the boost controller). I ended up replacing the spark plugs with a .08mm gap, and put in my mates oem coilpacks (that weren't warped like mine), and the car seemed to run better then, but I was still having the same issue.

So, I took my car to a dyno for a diagnostics run to pin point the issue. Upon being on the dyno for approximately 4 minutes, the guy said that I was having 'major air issues.'

He suggested that it may be intercooler piping, as the guy who did the 25 swap in and hook up, looks like he just used any scrap pieces of intercooler piping he could find.

In retrospect, having a look at the joins very closely made me realise that there may have been some dodgy seals on the intercooler piping, so I went and purchased a universal intercooler piping kit and got to work.

Once I had the front bar off, and started pulling pipes to exchange and cut to get good seals, I finally got to the pod filter.

What I hadn't done (until this point) was look at and check to see if it was blocked. Upon taking it off, I realised that when the guy I purchased the car from painted the front bar, he didn't mask off the air cleaner! More than half of the pod filter was blocked by paint overspray...

At this point, all piping was put back on with better seals in the joins, and a new pod filter installed, and everything runs like a dream.

I can rev all the way up to redline, and do it with the pedal to the floor, without her missing a beat!

Just thought I'd put a solution to the initial question in the thread.

Thanks again guys and girls.

Edited December 3, 2013 by That Nick Guy