Brembo Brakes Squealing Passenger Side! :(

[niZmO_Man]

Didn't he say he has QFM HPX pads? Those are street pads. A1RM is the street/track pad.

Also, what kind of cheap arse jack were you using if it snapped? Get a proper jack man, that shit is dangerous.

Before spending more money on another set of pads, how about removing current pads and filing the surface? Give the corners (leading and trailing edges) a bit of a file as well to create a chamfer. After that, bed the pads in by following the procedure above.

This is the third instance I'm suggesting this. Both my cars have had HPX pads, both squealed when I first put them on. Filed the pads, and they have been quiet ever since. My R31 is ticking over 3 years now without a squeak. GT-R thrashed the pads after a track day, so if you're planning on doing track work, HPX won't last. But for street they are great.

[bluejeans]

I am not familiar with QFM pads as I run Project MU.

But the ones you got, I believe are light track performance pads.

They can take quite a bit of heat, at the same time need more heat then stock pads, to stop the squealing...

My Project MU B-Spec Pads squeal after normal driving until I get a bit more heat / hard brake with them.

Once they heat up, no squeal.

+1 for Project Mu B-Spec pads!

Been running these for along time and they are great.

I get no noise apart from a little when in heavy stop start traffic.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Yea ill give some street performance pads a shot. will report back. cheers for the help!

Sorry to chip in again, but what street performance pads is suggested?

(For my car, the squeal is back and very irritating)

Project MU Type NS, They say it out performs OEM so it's like the next step up for braking and good for street.

Didn't he say he has QFM HPX pads? Those are street pads. A1RM is the street/track pad.

I think they are like a semi street / track but only 'light' track use... High end street pad.

Similar Temp range as Project MU B-Spec's.

QMF HPX = 0 - 550 degrees C.

Project MU B - Spec = 0 - 500 degrees C.

+1 for Project Mu B-Spec pads!

Been running these for along time and they are great.

I get no noise apart from a little when in heavy stop start traffic.

+1

Yeah same.

Only in the stop start traffic.

[MrFijiGold]

Thanks guys. My car is daily driven on Para rd almost everyday. So something that is friendly in those conditions. My car will never see the track or heavy use (apart from a few nasho runs)

Sorry for being a pain but I cant stand the noise & abuse from other drivers in traffic. Lol

[Deza3000]

Didn't he say he has QFM HPX pads? Those are street pads. A1RM is the street/track pad.

Also, what kind of cheap arse jack were you using if it snapped? Get a proper jack man, that shit is dangerous.

Before spending more money on another set of pads, how about removing current pads and filing the surface? Give the corners (leading and trailing edges) a bit of a file as well to create a chamfer. After that, bed the pads in by following the procedure above.

This is the third instance I'm suggesting this. Both my cars have had HPX pads, both squealed when I first put them on. Filed the pads, and they have been quiet ever since. My R31 is ticking over 3 years now without a squeak. GT-R thrashed the pads after a track day, so if you're planning on doing track work, HPX won't last. But for street they are great.

Was using the jack that came with the car man =/ Only had the car for 2 weeks so i suppose it isnt a factory evo jack (probably put in there for roady purposes).

Ill give filing a shot, however i have no jack =p(load rating on my other 2 jacks too low) Ill take it to a brake shop and get them to do it. Better than buying another set of pads or dropping the car again. Ill change pads as a last resort.

Thanks guys. My car is daily driven on Para rd almost everyday. So something that is friendly in those conditions. My car will never see the track or heavy use (apart from a few nasho runs) Sorry for being a pain but I cant stand the noise & abuse from other drivers in traffic. Lol

I feel ya man, get this nice turbo spool up sound, then a bloody squeal at < 30km braking. Disgusting. Destroys the integrity of the car.

[KiwiRS4T]

Was using the jack that came with the car man =/ Only had the car for 2 weeks so i suppose it isnt a factory evo jack (probably put in there for roady purposes).

Ill give filing a shot, however i have no jack =p(load rating on my other 2 jacks too low) Ill take it to a brake shop and get them to do it. Better than buying another set of pads or dropping the car again. Ill change pads as a last resort.

I feel ya man, get this nice turbo spool up sound, then a bloody squeal at < 30km braking. Disgusting. Destroys the integrity of the car.

What are you going to do if you get a puncture? Use the money you would have paid someone to chamfer your pads to buy a decent jack and if you don't know how to get the pads out do some searching - its not that difficult. Also I believe there is a material you can put behind the pads to reduce squealing.

[Sinista32]

He's got new anti squeal shims and the grease behind them already - check first post.

Jacks generally fail when not on a flat surface or knocked off them - dangerous, could have been seriously injured/dead.

Grab a decent and wheight rated jack for future use for your car.

Also if your going to do DIY stuff grab a 1500-2000kg Trolley jack for your garage.

and yeah. Time for you to take it into brake shop bro. Stop the guess work and enjoy your Skyline.

Ask for the pads to be ruffed up and chamfered. Check the anti squeal shims are the right ones (shape) and on correctly

When were the disks machined ? at the same time as the new pads ?

Make sure the piston seals are good !

Then bed them in properly if the shop hasn't already (most do).

Look in the DIY section and do the pads yourself next time.

I run PMU HC+ and they don't squeal at all

Edited October 18, 2013 by Sinista32

[Deza3000]

He's got new anti squeal shims and the grease behind them already - check first post.

Jacks generally fail when not on a flat surface or knocked off them - dangerous, could have been seriously injured/dead.

Grab a decent and wheight rated jack for future use for your car.

Also if your going to do DIY stuff grab a 1500-2000kg Trolley jack for your garage.

and yeah. Time for you to take it into brake shop bro. Stop the guess work and enjoy your Skyline.

Ask for the pads to be ruffed up and chamfered. Check the anti squeal shims are the right ones (shape) and on correctly

When were the disks machined ? at the same time as the new pads ?

Make sure the piston seals are good !

Then bed them in properly if the shop hasn't already (most do).

Look in the DIY section and do the pads yourself next time.

I run PMU HC+ and they don't squeal at all

Cheers for the advice, i will get a trolley jack for the garage, was kind of traumatic having a car fall like that =/

As for the brakes, discs were machined the same time as i got the pads, so eliminates one probability ;p But yea i will definitely do that.

The bloke i spoke to said he will do all he can to rectify the problem, so hopefully should be sweet.

[niZmO_Man]

Go down to Supercheap or similar store and get yourself a jack and two stands.

Thanks guys. My car is daily driven on Para rd almost everyday. So something that is friendly in those conditions. My car will never see the track or heavy use (apart from a few nasho runs) Sorry for being a pain but I cant stand the noise & abuse from other drivers in traffic. Lol

HPX in my GT-R worked great for over a year, daily duties Liverpool to Chatswood. Didn't survive a few sessions of track work, GT-R is too heavy for it at those temperatures.

[Chris32]

Ive got pretty bad squeal on my front drivers side.

The only thing I've done was swap my wheels over, and when I did this I gave the front drivers side disc a bit of a wobble.

The rotor was kinda stuck on the hub, and popped off. Like it was rusted on, however the other week when I flushed my fluid I popped the caliper off, and to my surprise the back of the rotor had what looked to be some of the copper anti-squeal grease on it.

I'm going to grab some more next time I'm at the parts shop, and apply some to the back of the rotor where it meets the hub. I'm sure thats what's causing my squeal

[Deza3000]

Alright guys, the problem has been identified, however the solution has not been implemented as i am broke at the moment due to exams =p

Anyways, the guys at brakes plus spent 2 hours fiddling around with the brakes,Using the process of elimination:

- firstly what they did was the put the car up on a hoist and identified which side the squeal came from. It was from the passenger side, so what they did was swapped all the pins and brackets from the passenger side to the driver side. The noise still persisted on the passenger side.

- Next they swapped the pads over, however the noise was still coming from the passenger side

- Lastly they tried swapping the rotors, the noise was then generated from the drivers side. So the rotors were to blame for the squeal.

The solution was to upgrade to aftermarket rotors, turns out the pads i was using (and a lot of other high performance pads) dont like OEM rotors, DBA 4000 or RDA slotted was the recommended option, unless i decide to switch to a lesser performing pad, like a cheap composite pad (which i feel defeats the purpose of having brembos =p). They charged nothing for the labor which was pretty generous of them considering they had spent a few hours on my car.

But yea thats the main reason why i have such a harsh squeal, hopefully this helps everyone else with their squeal issues.

[Sinista32]

thanks for posting back

[Deza3000]

No worries, ill give an update after purchasing some new rotors

[Deza3000]

Sorry to chip in again, but what street performance pads is suggested?

(For my car, the squeal is back and very irritating)

All good, he used the brakes plus pads as reference, so HPX was equvilant to premium plus (just below high performance), and composite was 2- 3 steps below, so id assume anything that can withstand 250 degree heat as oppose to 550 like the hpx. He said benedix general CT would eliminate the squeal, but will also result in lower braking performance. Also recommended hawk (never heard of this brand).

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Alright guys, the problem has been identified, however the solution has not been implemented as i am broke at the moment due to exams =p

Anyways, the guys at brakes plus spent 2 hours fiddling around with the brakes,Using the process of elimination:

- firstly what they did was the put the car up on a hoist and identified which side the squeal came from. It was from the passenger side, so what they did was swapped all the pins and brackets from the passenger side to the driver side. The noise still persisted on the passenger side.

- Next they swapped the pads over, however the noise was still coming from the passenger side

- Lastly they tried swapping the rotors, the noise was then generated from the drivers side. So the rotors were to blame for the squeal.

The solution was to upgrade to aftermarket rotors, turns out the pads i was using (and a lot of other high performance pads) dont like OEM rotors, DBA 4000 or RDA slotted was the recommended option, unless i decide to switch to a lesser performing pad, like a cheap composite pad (which i feel defeats the purpose of having brembos =p). They charged nothing for the labor which was pretty generous of them considering they had spent a few hours on my car.

But yea thats the main reason why i have such a harsh squeal, hopefully this helps everyone else with their squeal issues.

Get a set of DBA 4000's.

[Deza3000]

Get a set of DBA 4000's.

Yup, leaning towards them, might get it from GSL rally sport. 240 per rotor for slotted i think? RDA were like 200 for a pair of cross drilled and slotted rotors, seems shifty =p

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Yup, leaning towards them, might get it from GSL rally sport. 240 per rotor for slotted i think? RDA were like 200 for a pair of cross drilled and slotted rotors, seems shifty =p

Most will say DBA and RDA are the same... But you'd figure DBA cost more for a reason...

I went with DBA based on other peoples experience and they run fine.

A few good things about the new DBA 4000's are the T3 Uni Slots and the painted centre hats to avoid surface rust.

And I believe they have manufactured the rotors with a new design, compared to the old version.

I don't really like cross drilled rotors.

$240 per rotor is about the same of what I paid for my DBA's.

[Chris32]

I fixed my sqeual completely by rounding off the trailing and leading edges of the pads with a file on the weekend. Whisper quiet!

[Deza3000]

Most will say DBA and RDA are the same... But you'd figure DBA cost more for a reason...

I went with DBA based on other peoples experience and they run fine.

A few good things about the new DBA 4000's are the T3 Uni Slots and the painted centre hats to avoid surface rust.

And I believe they have manufactured the rotors with a new design, compared to the old version.

I don't really like cross drilled rotors.

$240 per rotor is about the same of what I paid for my DBA's.

I think DBA's kangaroo paw design is what sets it apart from RDA, also did some research, and RDAs tend to crack when used at the track, so could be the reason why. Most probably with racing pads.

I fixed my sqeual completely by rounding off the trailing and leading edges of the pads with a file on the weekend. Whisper quiet!

Yea my pads were already chamferd, did exactly that, however the squeal was coming from the rotor not liking the pads. So i need to change the rotors. =p

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

I think DBA's kangaroo paw design is what sets it apart from RDA, also did some research, and RDAs tend to crack when used at the track, so could be the reason why. Most probably with racing pads.

Yeah that too to help with heat dissipation, yet still keeping the strength / hardness of the rotor.

I guess, go RDA for a peace at mind.

Ultimately I would have gone with Project MU but the DBA's were a decent price at the time.