Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Having a problem with my R34 GT-T where the windshield washer isn't working. I have checked the fluid and it's topped up (obviously) and I can hear the motor running when using it.

At first a little bit of water comes out but it looks to be blocked or something. I have tried cleaning out the nozzle's but that didn't do anything.

What should I be checking for / replacing?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433547-r34-windshield-washer-not-working/
Share on other sites

- failing washer bottle motor (seems to be a lack of pressure). Otherwise one of the squirters would surely work.

Test it by using the other washer bottle motor

2011-11-11180226.jpg

If not you can see how the bottle is attached by this diagram.

Remove and clean any filters etc... (I wouldn't think there would be a blockage in the bottle though)

You can check the tubing attached to the squirters under bonnet.

The y piece

Even remove the squirters and clean them if you want.

Washer bottle motors are generally under $10 at Supercheap.

  • 2 weeks later...

Actually never mind, just diagnosed it and it turns out the squirters are the ones that are clogged (easy to test just by removing the pipe all the way up to the squirters themselves).

Can't seem to work out how to remove them though, do they just push out through the bonnet?

Thanks for your help

Managed to fix it. Just used a needle to stick through both the top and bottom of the nozzle, combined with constant pressure from the pump (pressing down on the stick every half second for 30 seconds created more pressure) it managed to unblock it. This is the type of gunk that was blocking it :\

http://i.imgur.com/Ykpy47U.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Had this problem about 2 months ago, generally it's a blockage in the hose/nozzles if you can hear the motor going, I just disconnected all the hoses and cleaned them. Then as you did grabbed and needle and got the exact same crap as you did from the nozzles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have to put something here in order to post the photos. From what I could gather there's more enthusiasm for modified cars now than there has been for years. There were probably more younger people there than older (me included lol) which was a good sign.  It did seem like the record least amount of representation of the 90's era hero cars on display though. Like maybe one or two examples of S-chassis Nissans, and maybe 3 or 4 R-chassis. By comparison there were a lot of Civics from that era but in all there were about 10 - 12 EG/EK Civic Type R.  Euro exotics are always there in large numbers, led by Liberty Walk...... say what you will about kids using markers to scribble on a Ferrari F40, it did seem like a stunt to infuriate Ferrari enthusiasts, or Ferrari itself. I wonder if there's something more to it. Either way LBWK have done some heinous things to a Lamborghini Miura this time. They should stop now.
    • Engines and drivelines are not war stoppers for me mate, busted arse bodies and un-obtainium parts and panels are though Both cheap Brumbies I looked at had trashed tubs and a fair bit of rust
    • Stock O2 sensors are narrowband. They're useless once you're away from stoich. IE, useless for what you're trying to do. 10:1 will read the same as 14:1 from the stock O2 sensors. That is, they'll read rich. The same level of rich.
    • I agree once misfires happen it's basically worthless, but the hope is you can see what's happening in the run up to that. 
    • You should totally get a Brumby, and then come pick up the Subaru Liberty GTB I have here. EJ25 Turbo, 6 speed manual from the sti (just no dccd), and the good rear diff. Drop all that into a Brumby and go have fun!
×
×
  • Create New...