Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Having a problem with my R34 GT-T where the windshield washer isn't working. I have checked the fluid and it's topped up (obviously) and I can hear the motor running when using it.

At first a little bit of water comes out but it looks to be blocked or something. I have tried cleaning out the nozzle's but that didn't do anything.

What should I be checking for / replacing?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433547-r34-windshield-washer-not-working/
Share on other sites

- failing washer bottle motor (seems to be a lack of pressure). Otherwise one of the squirters would surely work.

Test it by using the other washer bottle motor

2011-11-11180226.jpg

If not you can see how the bottle is attached by this diagram.

Remove and clean any filters etc... (I wouldn't think there would be a blockage in the bottle though)

You can check the tubing attached to the squirters under bonnet.

The y piece

Even remove the squirters and clean them if you want.

Washer bottle motors are generally under $10 at Supercheap.

  • 2 weeks later...

Actually never mind, just diagnosed it and it turns out the squirters are the ones that are clogged (easy to test just by removing the pipe all the way up to the squirters themselves).

Can't seem to work out how to remove them though, do they just push out through the bonnet?

Thanks for your help

Managed to fix it. Just used a needle to stick through both the top and bottom of the nozzle, combined with constant pressure from the pump (pressing down on the stick every half second for 30 seconds created more pressure) it managed to unblock it. This is the type of gunk that was blocking it :\

http://i.imgur.com/Ykpy47U.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Had this problem about 2 months ago, generally it's a blockage in the hose/nozzles if you can hear the motor going, I just disconnected all the hoses and cleaned them. Then as you did grabbed and needle and got the exact same crap as you did from the nozzles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...