Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

My intention is to put a T67 on a high compression RB25de motor and run E85. Sadly the de head's inlet manifold design was making things too difficult so i've picked up a cheap R34 RB25det head instead. My target is around 300rwkw give or take but really i'm doing this for the fun of it and am not particularly driven to an end point, therefore, i'm quite happy to do what's reasonable (good payoff for reliability or power) whilst trying to keep as much stock as possible. The bottom end is in excellent condition and I was going to leave it completely stock and find out what it is capable of. Before sending the head off to prepare it, it was suggested that I should replace the valve springs. I have found 2 options for NEO heads in Ferrea and Performance Springs. I have done a few searches which haven't really focused on what points really justify replacing the valve springs except that it's just a 'good idea'. Can anyone offer me advise on if it's worthwhile, and if worthwhile, which springs would make sense for my application?

Regards,

Saru

I think you'll find that the question will be "staying with std cams?" in which case, if your answer is "yes" the response will then be "don't bother with the valve springs".

What it comes down to is that 300rwkW is nothing major. People are making that and a lot more on E85 on completely standard motors. You don't have to use a shit tonne of boost and you don't have to use a lot of revs and you don't have to use big cams to get to that sort of power. Therefore there isn't really any pressing drive to do valve springs.

If you have money to burn and/or would like to future proof your build against any urges to make the power levels go up a long way, then go right ahead. Ferrea have a good name for valves - you'd imagine their springs should be OK. And the other aspect of making a decision is that given that you don't need to use anything better than stock for your existing plans, then it probably doesn't matter if one brand of springs are effectively 5% better in some way than another if you're not likely to approach the limits of either anyway.

That's an excellent answer, thanks.

I did find the following advice:

STATUS, on 29 Apr 2010, said: The rb25 will support mid 300's unopened all day everyday, there are however a handful that fall over valve spring wise.

I guess it begs the question, if I don't want to change cams, is there never a reason to go for after market valve springs?

e.g.

valve springs are a common failure point and should be replaced or

valve springs are the first weakest link in the RB25det neo head when making power

Edited by Sarumatix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...