Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys excuse me if I'm in the wrong place still new. I've always liked the shape of the soarers and like the v8 engines in them currently I drive a 34gtt but I wouldn't mind getting one as a daily it will probably be a bit more comfortable then the 34 and also less attention from the 50 I've seen they can go for around 2-18k any one have any dealings with them also any thing to look out for ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433881-lexus-sc400-toyota-soarer/
Share on other sites

The soarers are a great car, perfect for what your looking for (daily/comfort). I have only driven a n/a 3.0 version, as you would expect it felt very boaty.

The V8's are pretty heavy and not the best on fuel, I think the turbo six is the best out of the two. Besides minor electrical problems with the dash I don't think they have any major issues.

I was going to buy one awhile ago but the weight of the car kind off turned me of them, that and the doors are freakin huge.

Edited by eightsixboy

Ok Ive owned mine for a few years

DONT Get the V8, the TT six eats them in every possible way. (or better yet get a late model with the vvti single turbo engine)

Get a 94 or later version, as all the electrics were fixed for 94.

Air suspension is shit.

Don't Get one with EMV!!!!!

Powersteer pumps like to shit themselves

Spares are expensive, but commonality with the JZA80 Supra underneath makes good brakes and suspension simple.

So keep it stock or be prepared to spend huge $$$$

They eat up highway miles like a daemon, (I have the 1JZ TT version) 800ks to a tank on the freeway if you're sensible (80L) tank

Mines fine, but stock power.

General consensus is 250rwkws, but like all things, depends on the car.

There are a couple of pov spec JZZ30 autos running mid 11's with the stock turbos, and the stock auto.

Autos are quicker than the manual in a 1/4 shoot out stock for stock and the autos are silky smooth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
    • And....if that could be true for all R34 GTTs, then it might be good. But in reality it is not really any better than my standard instruction to "go out and have a look at it yourself, and wave a tape measure around" etc etc, because as soon as you have any adjustable arms, or coilovers with smaller diameter springs, or tyres that have any bulge that goes out further than the rim, etc etc, then the simple version of the information is still potentially misleading. Plus, nothing in this is static. Everything is moving. At the rear the wheels swing inward at the top as they go up, so the clearances on the inside change as the suspension is compressed. At the front it's even worse. And then you have the difference in absolute wheel position in the arch can move around more, or less, depending on how compliant the bushes are. If, like me, you have sphericals on the front caster rods (and on the FUCAs also, but these are probably less dominant when it comes to wheel position), then your wheel will swing forward/backward under loads, as well as up/down, as well as steering angle. You end up having the simple numbers with 17 caveats/footnotes for each.
×
×
  • Create New...