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I got about the same result from installing/tuning a safc2. 170 up to 181kw, same mods as you on stock ecu.

Main difference was comes on quicker and smoother after 4k rpm.

I think biggest benefit of the nistune is now you can do more mods for more power. (increase boost, bigger turbo, etc) none of this can be done on stock.

Mods = more power increase

ecu = how well you can use the mods.

personally I'd run the thing at way more boost until the turbo shits itself then get hypergear to highflow it. 11psi is still within what's acceptable on the standard ECU

Ever seen the after effects of a turbo 'shitting itself'? Usually costs around $2k for a new motor after most of the compressor has been through the motor.

I would say that's about what to expect; between 180-190 is pretty decent for an 18 year old motor that's probably down on compression since it left the factory. If you want more power, as suggested get some new injectors and a high flow turbo and you could see up to 250rwkw.

As for 'moar boost', that doesn't always result in more power, after around 12psi the standard turbo looses efficient and it won't flow any more air. There isn't much difference between 12 and 14 psi except for heat

Ever seen the after effects of a turbo 'shitting itself'? Usually costs around $2k for a new motor after most of the compressor has been through the motor.

I would say that's about what to expect; between 180-190 is pretty decent for an 18 year old motor that's probably down on compression since it left the factory. If you want more power, as suggested get some new injectors and a high flow turbo and you could see up to 250rwkw.

As for 'moar boost', that doesn't always result in more power, after around 12psi the standard turbo looses efficient and it won't flow any more air. There isn't much difference between 12 and 14 psi except for heat

A ceramic turbo will let the exhaust wheel out and end up in the cat nothing to do with the comp wheel. Its mainly a problem with GTR's when the ceramics fail there can be ceramic dust that ends up being sucked back into the chamber, i've never heard of this on a RB25.

Ever seen the after effects of a turbo 'shitting itself'? Usually costs around $2k for a new motor after most of the compressor has been through the motor.

I would say that's about what to expect; between 180-190 is pretty decent for an 18 year old motor that's probably down on compression since it left the factory. If you want more power, as suggested get some new injectors and a high flow turbo and you could see up to 250rwkw.

As for 'moar boost', that doesn't always result in more power, after around 12psi the standard turbo looses efficient and it won't flow any more air. There isn't much difference between 12 and 14 psi except for heat

I've never heard of someone blowing the motor as well when the stock turbo lets go.

Like James (Sklyn) I recently installed / Tuned an SAFC2 and found the Response, Midrange and Drivability improved greatly.

Totally Different car. Not sure what the before figure was but after the first tune I got 181.8rwkw. Much Better pickup.

That tune was backed off due to potential Timing belt issues.

I got the Timing Belt replaced and a retune saw a further increase to 192.4rwkw but this tune is also not to full potential.

My engine seems to want to start pinging when normally it wouldn't. My "Tuner" reckons it's acting as though the compression is higher than it should be. Maybe the head has been skimmed more than normal.

(Series 2 R33 RB25det, Pod, Metal intake, RB20 10psi Actuator on Stock Turbo, ARC smic, 3" Exhaust, Bosch 044 intank.)

But only being an SAFC, I would've thought a Nistune would open up alot more than 10kw.

I'd seek a 2nd opinion / tuner. Compared to an SAFC, something doesn't sound right...

I've never heard of someone blowing the motor as well when the stock turbo lets go.

On RB26 it happens frequently because there is a much more direct path from the turbine housing up into the exhaust manifold and exhaust ports for ceramic fragments to travel. The RB20/5 exhaust manifold makes it harder for that to happen (apparently). I say apparently because there are certainly fewer cases where a lunched turbine has trashed an engine, but if you trawl the net you will find the occasional death by ceramic even on these engines. My mechanic has seen more than one engine death that can be attributed to shattered 20/25 turbos.

And just in case anyone is still confused, it has nothing to do with the compressor wheel.

Yes sorry turbine not compressor*

It's quite common with the ceramics, my mechanic has seen heaps of them because apparently this theory of deliberately blowing it up is common. Can't understand it myself because it won't go any faster after the airflow is maxed so why push it any harder? Max the airflow and save for a new turbo and it won't cost you a new motor

personally I'd run the thing at way more boost until the turbo shits itself then get hypergear to highflow it. 11psi is still within what's acceptable on the standard ECU

He's already running 10-11psi with the R32 actuator. could put a little more but hardly worth it until highflow goes in.

Yes sorry turbine not compressor*

It's quite common with the ceramics, my mechanic has seen heaps of them because apparently this theory of deliberately blowing it up is common. Can't understand it myself because it won't go any faster after the airflow is maxed so why push it any harder? Max the airflow and save for a new turbo and it won't cost you a new motor

Depends on what you're doing with what turbo. I ran my R32 ceramic at 17 psi for a couple of days and it was a bloody rocketship. Good intercooler helped to offset the probably fairly high compressor outlet temperatures, but the engine just kept making power as the boost was increased over the sensible max of ~14 psi. I think even though the old Hitachi turbos are not modern tech, they still operate just fine in the mid teens boost wise, so long as you can cool the air back down. It's not actually asking too much of them, except for the imminent risk of turbine destruction!

Edited by GTSBoy

DO you honesty think Nissan f**ked the factory tune up so bad that you could make more than a few killerwasps extra?

They didn't mess the tune up, however they added a heavily richened and retarded area to the map so that if you up the boost you don't blow the motor up, this results in a lack of power and very rich performance if you use a bigger turbo or more boost than stock, hence a retune can easily net > 20kw extra

and also remember with the factory restrictive exhaust system timing was shaven up top to prevent detonation.. same goes with S14/S15 maps.. just an exhaust mod & adding more timing from 5600 rpm will easily achieve close to 200kW with just 1 bar.

Seems to be a few different opinions on the power gain I should be getting with the ECU.

In the Sth East suburbs, I only know of 3 workshops that tune Nistune: RevZone(tuned my car), RE Customs and Springy Motors. I've heard good things about RE Customs but I'm not really sure it's worth me shelling out another $600+ for a handful of KW's when I will ultimately be getting a Hypergear H/F anyway.

In the Sth East suburbs, I only know of 3 workshops that tune Nistune: RevZone(tuned my car), RE Customs and Springy Motors. I've heard good things about RE Customs but I'm not really sure it's worth me shelling out another $600+ for a handful of KW's when I will ultimately be getting a Hypergear H/F anyway.

Lol.

Good luck finding RE...

Springy lost their tuner afaik.

Never heard of RevZone.

Have you heard of Checkered tuning? Trent would be the best bet. It's not about the power, its the way it drives that would see marked improvement, with a decent tuner behind the keyboard.

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