Flushing RB20 properly

[R32 GTSTT]

Ive read forums about flushing coolent out of a R32 but none explain details of how to do it properly.

What hoses do u have to take off to drain all coolent out, and where bouts can hook up a hose to flush it all through? Specific details would be great.

[knore]

Ive never done it, but im assuming you pull the bottom hose off the radiator

[R32 GTSTT]

yer i know that, but wheres the drain on the block 2 get all the coolent out

[R32 GTSTT]

come on guys someone must know how to do it properly, is there a drain on the block somewhere?

[nissky]

there is a plastic drain plug at the bottom of the radiator that i removed, to flush the coolant out, i dont think there is one on the block

also there is a small plug that your suppose to use at the front of the intake manifold, to remove air bubbles (highest point in coolant tract)

come on guys someone must know how to do it properly, is there a drain on the block somewhere?

[Greg]

[lwells]

Just a quick question re: doing this on an RB26DETT. According to the man page that Greg posted it says you have to remove the "exhaust front tube". Is the man page referring to the front pipes, dump pipes, or what?

Is it correct that it *has* to be removed, or is there a better way to go about it?

Cheers guys,

Lucien.

[Baz]

I'm sure there is some sort of drain plug on the bottom of the GTR radiator that should be exposed without having to take anything apart (thats the whole design of having an easy to get plug at the bottom of the radiator). It's all about just removing the radiator cap, drain the coolant from the radiator and system, once empty fill the system up with distilled water, run it for about 5 minutes (to get all the coolant in the block out that wouldnt have come out by just draining the coolant), drain that then fill up with new coolant. Please remember that air pockets do occur in the cooling system after flushing it. So just run it for a while then top it up and done!

However I have never worked on a GTR before so I'm not completely 100%. Thats just a simple process that I use on all cars that I work on.

Cheers,

Scott

[lwells]

GotBoost: I am planning to completely remove the radiator to have it flushed, so I want to dump the water completely: the quickest (and perhaps most thorough) is to use the drain hole on the block, hence my question

The other question I have: in Step 1 (and to fill, Step 4) is says to turn the ignition to the ON position. Do you just do that, adjust the temperature and then turn it to OFF, or do you leave it at the ON position during the entire flush procedure?

Cheers

Lucien.

[SteveL]

Just a quick question re: doing this on an RB26DETT.  According to the man page that Greg posted it says you have to remove the "exhaust front tube".  Is the man page referring to the front pipes, dump pipes, or what?

It's the down pipe that has to be removed....so you can get to the block drain. Otherwise you can't even see it, let alone get to it. Also I'd say the lower support bracket for the rear turbo will need to be removed to allow leverage on the drain plug. I've literally just removed the radiator from my GTR and it was made a whole lot easier with a hoist....doing it without one would be a nightmare (well.....maybe a bad dream )

[Jordan]

If you just wanted to flush it, without draining the whole lot first then undo the top pipe and let it drain as the engine is running. Fill the rad with water from the hose untill the water leaving the car turns clear. Dont forget to add a few litres of coolant at the end and bleed the air out of the valve at the top o fthe head

[lwells]

SteveL: by down pipe I assume you mean the turbo dump pipe..? Do I need new gaskets or anything (if the old ones are A-OK)? No hoist here unfortunately, but that's never a problem with a little persistence

It sounds like dumping the coolant from the block is a PITA. What I might do is just dump the coolant from the radiator first, then remove it so I can drop it off at the radiator place, come home and then do the block... otherwise the radiator place might be closed by the time I finish (judging from your description of how hard it is to get to the block drain plug) See any problems with this method?

Finally, any thoughts on my second question regarding the ignition being set to ON?

Jordan: Thank you, but I really do believe in doing things properly which means the radiator has to come out to go to a radiator shop to be flushed. By the way, you really should use demineralised water, not that crap that comes out of our taps that's called "water" .

Lucien.

[Jordan]

Yeah, In an ideal world demineralised is the best. Gotta remember to pick some up from Kmart. About 11 litres should do I reckon.

[SteveL]

SteveL: by down pipe I assume you mean the turbo dump pipe..? Do I need new gaskets or anything (if the old ones are A-OK)? No hoist here unfortunately, but that's never a problem with a little persistence

Sorry should have been clearer.....the 2-into-1 pipe between the dumps and the cat. God I'm glad I bought the hoist. It meant delaying all the work I planned, but it's been well worth it. That said, persistance is good

Personally I'd replace the gaskets to be sure, but Nissan want $20+ each for the dump->down pipe gaskets, which is a bit rich AFAIC. An exhaust place should be able to supply something for around $5....it's something I have to check on next week.

It sounds like dumping the coolant from the block is a PITA.  What I might do is just dump the coolant from the radiator first, then remove it so I can drop it off at the radiator place, come home and then do the block... otherwise the radiator place might be closed by the time I finish (judging from your description of how hard it is to get to the block drain plug)  See any problems with this method?

That's basically what I do, but it's best to drain the block if you can. What I do normally (no hoist) is to put the front of the car up on ramps and then the rear on jack stands. This should give you ample 'crawl' space for everything short of dropping the gearbox.

Finally, any thoughts on my second question regarding the ignition being set to ON?

I think the idea is to allow the heater core to drain...putting the ign on + setting a high temp opens the flow control valve fully. What I normally do is disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and then do a 'direct flush' of the core using a hose on the firewall connectors to the core until the water runs clear. In this case you'd do that with the ign on, etc, but turn ign off once done (and reconnect hoses, etc).

[RB30-POWER]

If you can't remove the block drain plug, then remove the thermostat instead and allow it to run from the upper hose out of the lower hose.

If the thermostat is left in it will be closed obviously because its cold and wont allow the old coolant to flow out.

I always do it this way, removing the block drain plug is a pain in the arse...

[lwells]

Righto,

I am one sore customer tonight. Removing the radiator was dead simple and took 30 minutes. Draining the block is the most difficult thing I have ever done: talk about a *terrible* position to put the plug! Just to confirm what SteveL said, you will need to remove the 2-into-1 front pipes and cat so you can at least see the drain plug. I had to remove the rear turbo support and bend the heat shield a little so I could get at the plug. I ended up having to use almost the entire sidchrome collection: rachet + extension + uni joint + socket + additional bar for leverage. Because the plug is quite high up a spanner/rachet probably won't reach, nor was there enough room for a rachet + socket combo without hitting the turbos heatshield. Even with the aforementioned sidchrome connoction it was almost impossible.

The front pipes and cat were also a massive pain as they were original parts: 15 years of rust and constant metal expansion/contraction means the bolts were not overly helpful.

Not sure whether to bother with new gaskets. My old man is of the opinion that we should just use some manifold cement stuff and be done with it: thoughts?

Thanks for your help guys. I took lots of photos of the whole process, so when I get time I will do a howto thingo.

Lucien.

[The Dan]

Dont use manifold cement. If you must use anything, use blue silicon that is sensor safe.

I don't recommend using this very much either but it is the pick of the two.

Just go and buy new gaskets. If there is one thing I have learned while owning this car, it is that you never compromise for doing the job right. You have gone to all the trouble of draining it properly, when there are plenty of other ways to do it more simply and less thorough, so spend the extra $10-$20 to do the rest of it properly.

Just my opinion.

[lwells]

I had to use manifold cement: no auto shops has appropriate gaskets, and no exhaust shops were open. If I didn't get it back together it would have been in parts for 2+ weeks (ie. not an option).

I used good stuff (good to 300 degress), cleaned up the original gaskets, and used the cement very sparingly (not great globs like most people). Seems to have held together.

I would have preferred new gaskets but sometimes you can't do what you want Given its fairly easy to replace the gaskets, I can always do it later if there is a problem.

Lucien.

[lwells]

As promised:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=67730

LW.