Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.evolvedcoatings.com.au/liquid-wrap/

Seems like a cheaper alternative to Plastidip.

Apparantly they have a "clear" type of liquid wrap, sounds like it might be the goods for keeping my paint smick and preventing stone chips.

Anybody got any experiance with liquid wrapping there car?

I know lots of people do there wheels and they seem to out alright.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434147-anybody-tried-ebc-liquid-wrap/
Share on other sites

Used it. Wouldn't suggest unless you paint is absolutely perfect where you plan to use it. I had very small paint swirls on the nose of the hood and never really thought of it. Applied the stuff on. Got the car waxed and buffed. Now I got a super clean hood minus the nose of it. So.... get the paint perfect otherwise it looks funky.

Clear. Friend tried the "color matched" but once dried, looked horrible.

Hmmm

Can you describe what it looked like after you put it on?

Was it just like someone had put contact on your car?

Did it come off easy enough?

A friend at a Jaguar dealer helped is gonna help me with the next application on my new R33. I guess that's a common dealer option for their cars and he told me he'd help out to get it right. I guess if you really want it clean looking, get it professionally done. I know I'll never do it myself again. I've considered using a clear sticker thingy kit someone was talking bout but I'd think the clear vinyl would start to yellow from the sun.

Hmmm

Can you describe what it looked like after you put it on?

Was it just like someone had put contact on your car?

Did it come off easy enough?

Went on super clear. Looked like simple clear coat. Mask and tape off your area. Apply. Wait. Apply. Wet sand little. Unmask and wash. Wish I had a pic of it. Friends car was red. Stuff he got was supposedly color matched. Once dried, it looked deeper in color. Not sure if it was that he put on three apps or what. Couldn't tell at night but easy to see in the sun. Laid super flat and thin. He never tried removing it cause he later went to a fiberglass hood. I never attempted to take it off either. Far as I know, once it's on....it's on!

Hey TL.... I don't think you're talking about EBC Liquid Wrap? It's a Spray on Peel off coating, it's not distributed in the US and it's certainly not designed to be permanent.

With the clear, it comes in matte and glossy, so you will notice a difference between the finish of the coated area and non-coated areas.

Hey TL.... I don't think you're talking about EBC Liquid Wrap? It's a Spray on Peel off coating, it's not distributed in the US and it's certainly not designed to be permanent.

With the clear, it comes in matte and glossy, so you will notice a difference between the finish of the coated area and non-coated areas.

My mistake. I was thinking of a completely different product. I didn't realize yours peeled off! I wish I had that years ago! Stuff I used was basically a clear coat paint system. Branch out man! We need that stuff here!!!! My fault for not fully researching your product. Thought he was referring to the kit I used.

  • 10 months later...

Its been about a year since this was asked...

Anyone tried it yet?

How does it compare to Plasti Dip?

Mainly interested in a wheel application.

999automotive had their own option at PowerCruise but cant remember what it is called

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...