Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Keyless Entry?

FBRacing

By FBRacing,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

FBRacing Rising Star

FBRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have a series 2 R33 GTS-t, it has OEM keyless entry. Key looks like this

Posted Image

I think it also has some kind of receiver behind the door card

Thanks! Big help! The key I got was a re-cut from one of those GTR keys you can buy on eBay. Do you know if the S1 got these?

FBRacing Rising Star

FBRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have keyless entry. although my key looks heaps different to Cassbo's

You have an S1? I just don't know when they started using them... Ugh! It'd be nice to walk up and not have to try to fiddle with keys to get in. You can tell that a key has been used for some time to get in cuz of all the scratches around the key hole.

FBRacing Rising Star

FBRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I searched all over several forums and could not locate the correct method to program the key buttons my '98 GTS-T, so after a few days of trying every combination of steps located on 240sx, 300zx, and infiniti forums I came up with this: make sure all doors are closed, get in and lock the doors manually, insert and remove the key from the ignition 6 times within 10 seconds, the doors should then unlock to indicate it is in program mode, turn key to acc. position (do not start!) and manually relock the doors, press the lock button on the key once, the doors should then unlock again to indicate acceptance of key code. remove key, then get out and close the door and test the lock/unlock buttons. if the above steps were followed in order, all should work correctly!

Above quoted from GTR.co.uk. Does anyone know if the S1 got a keyless option? Searching keeps bringing up S2 and it was a common factory option.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

its a DEALER fitted item. they didn't come with keyless until S3. it will be FAR easier to add an aftermarket unit to the existing actuator that is there and remove that mess in the door.

as for coding it - dont bother.

FBRacing Rising Star

FBRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its a DEALER fitted item. they didn't come with keyless until S3. it will be FAR easier to add an aftermarket unit to the existing actuator that is there and remove that mess in the door.

as for coding it - dont bother.

What I figured. Seems a lot of those remotes forgot to get on the boat with these cars. Aftermarket alarm it is..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...