R34 GTR Radiator Upgrade

[archie1]

My R34 GTR cooling system struggles on warmer days duruing extended periods of using the performance (on boost) - not that you can do it for that long on the road these days.

Oil temp isn't the problem as my car has a large engine oil cooler already fitted - stays around the mid 80's most of the time. Looking at previous threads it appears the R34 has a thinner radiator than the earlier models and my problem is pretty common.

The MFD allows you to check the exact water temp which interestingly is a fair bit more accurate than the factory temp guage - ignorance is bliss I suspect on a lot of modern cars with the temp guage indicating "normal" at quite high coolant temperatures.

Temp will get close to 100 degrees when using the boost up big hills on hot days without too much trouble. If I went to a track day I suspect it would be worse. Not a problem to date but pretty hard on the engine.

Any tips for a radiator upgrade? I have emailed PWR and ARE and am waiting for a reply. Jap versions are available at considerable cost $2k+! Are these the go?? Didn't want to spend more than I had to but would like some safety margin in the cooling system for any future mods.

Any help appreciated.

regards

Andrew

[Sydneykid]

We use PWR.

[mist]

I remember seeing Koyo aluminium radiators for like around $1k for a R34 GTT... should be similar for a GTR? Jap made, good quality and decent price. Also have seen Trust radiators, don't think they're big enough. Other Jap ones: APEXi, FWIN and ARC (especially) are awesome, but be prepared to pay big $$. ARC radiator has awesome construction and is unbelievably light.

Alternative: can modify ur existing radiator. I had my radiator re-cored to triple cores...runs cooler than aluminium radiators in day-to-day traffic jams, but hotter on the track as it dissipates heat less effectively. works well for the $$, but if I have a bit of extra $$ lying around in future I will buy an aluminium one

[Abo Bob]

I've been told that 79 to 82 degrees is the range (well for my GTT anyway). Mine was running at 88 so I've had a new thermostat put in which fixed it.

I'm not saying you need a new thermostat, I'm saying 100 is way too hot. Get a 3 or 4 row. Any good quality radiator shop can help you. I've had custom cores made up for me back in my V8 days and the difference is amazing. Lumpy v8's in Cairns and the NT need hard core cooling.

hard CORE geddit hahahaaha.

but seriously.

[Sydneykid]

The rule of thumb for water temperature is that maximum efficiency (therefore maximum power) is attained at 85 degrees celsius.

[Maxx]

have a look in greenline, u might able to find something.

Jap - f-win 2 role aluminium i saw from somewhere esle is under 1k.

[mist]

yea 2 row is cheaper... but if budget stretches, a light aluminium 3 row is good

[KamikazeR33]

to be honest id go with something that is made for australian conditions rather than japan as they r both different

[Turbo Tits]

so a japanese three row aluminium radiator made for a 34 gtr isnt going to cool as well as an aussie made three row aluminium radiator made for the same car? comon.

[KamikazeR33]

u do have a point

but how they r designed will affect it also

[Maxx]

they spend a lot more $$ on designing product than aust made, so for the same stuff the jap product SHOULD works better.

Skyline are Jap car at the end.

[Abo Bob]

they spend a lot more $$ on designing product than aust made, so for the same stuff the jap product SHOULD works better.

Skyline are Jap car at the end.

Man, this argument is old and tired and baseless. It may be true in some circumstances but as a blanket it's no good for keeping you warm.

Aussies can make things world class in a lot of fields. Do you think that maybe the heat encountered here in Australia might prompt people to design good cooling systems?

The most knowledgable person I've spoken to on the subject was in a shop in Alice Springs. They know their cooling out there.

[Sydneykid]

As I previously posted we use PWR, half the price of Jap brand names (as usual) and very effective. Plus if it gets damaged (as in rock through core) they can repair it. They have 2 offf the shelf sizes for race GTR's and we use the smaller (thinner) one with a 650 bhp engine. We run ~20 minute races and in up to 40 degree ambient temperatures. So I don't think you need to worry about their cooling ability. Just in case it is important to you, they have a nice red PWR emblazoned accross the core. :aroused:

So I can't hink of any reason why I would buy anything else.

[archie1]

As I previously posted we use PWR, half the price of Jap brand names (as usual) and very effective.  Plus if it gets damaged (as in rock through core) they can repair it.  They have 2 offf the shelf sizes for race GTR's and we use the smaller (thinner) one with a 650 bhp engine.  We run ~20 minute races and in up to 40 degree ambient temperatures.  So I don't think you need to worry about their cooling ability.  Just in case it is important to you, they have a nice red PWR emblazoned accross the core. :aroused:  

So I can't hink of any reason why I would buy anything else.

Thanks for your various posts everyone - haven't jumped in until now as interested in what everyone has to say.

PWR have responded to my inquiry - $795 retail plus freight for a 40mm single core aluminium version which will directly replace the stock one. I assume this is what you are using on your race car Sydney Kid??

If so my engine doesn't make anything like 650hp (and won't even if I launch into further mods) so should keep me well and truly out of mischief!

Will keep everyone advise of the results if/when I take the leap. Cooling capacity is not something you want to be short of in Australian conditions with turbocharged cars.

Its interesting that my car is marginal cooling wise in standard trim - never a problem in my WRX days as they seem to have over engineered cooling systems stock?? Small price to pay for stepping up to the GTR though!

Thanks again.

regards

Andrew

[Merli]

Are PWR radiators made out of alumiunium?

Weight is an issue for me...

[Merli]

.... and a quick check of their website indicates that they are indeed aluminium radiators

[meshmesh]

I was warned against aluminium radiators for street use as they tend to hold much more heat when used for day to day stop start driving. Race wise, aluminium is another story.

[Clint32]

i just got my ARE dual pass cross flow radiator, uses a 40mm core and is much more efficient than a thicker core with a tank at the top and bottom, top quality work, i wont know how well it works for a while

[archie1]

i just got my ARE dual pass cross flow radiator, uses a 40mm core and is much more efficient than a thicker core with a tank at the top and bottom, top quality work, i wont know how well it works for a while

Interested in how the ARE units perform. They are over $1k but looking at the design, as you say, they are a cross flow, dual pass design which looks superior to the "normal" PWR type top-bottom unit. ARE have never done an R34 if it makes any difference.

Anyone have any thoughts regarding the benefit of either design?? Pic of the ARE unit attached - quality stuff.

Any input appreciated.

regards

Andrew

[archie1]

i just got my ARE dual pass cross flow radiator, uses a 40mm core and is much more efficient than a thicker core with a tank at the top and bottom, top quality work, i wont know how well it works for a while

Fitted this radiator yet Clint??

What do you think??

regards

Andrew