Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 R34 GTT Tiptronic Sedan. Excellent condition. SOLD

0421 973 558

Up for sale is our 98 R34 GTT tiptronic sedan. The car was imported in 2011 with 86,000kms and I am the first Australian owner. I have most of the import documentation.

The car is in excellent condition with 117,000km on the clock. The exterior is almost blemish fresh, save for a car park dent on the passenger side rear door and some superficial scuffs.

The interior is in as new condition.

The car has factory option Nismo clear front and side indicators and carbon fiber overlays between the doors.

I have fitted an Apexi cat back exhaust, stainless door sill scuff plates and a carbon fiber dash insert. (I still have all the original parts). It still has the Japanese stereo fitted as it picked up our preferred radio station.

The car drives exceptionally well and is in A1 mechanical condition. I would prefer not to sell it, but my wife struggles with getting the pram in the boot.

The car has new tyres fitted 3 months ago and won't need much for a RWC and has 11 months of rego.

I would consider a swap for a Stagea with a cash adjustment negotiable based on vehicle condition/sale price.

Cheers

Scott

null_zps8f8c5f26.jpgnull_zps15788d1f.jpgnull_zpsf340e1a0.jpgnull_zps50424285.jpgnull_zpsc1e54cec.jpgnull_zpsfc699030.jpgnull_zps673bc993.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...