Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes the Air Reg is the fast idle device.

It's buried under the plenum, is a 12V bi-metallic strip valve and you mentioned that it's all plumbed in anyway.

The resistor mounts to the left strut tower and the air reg won't work electrically without the resistor, but it will close from engine bay heat regardless.

It's one item I always block off on my Rb's, simply not need in my climate.

The MAP sensor for the factory boost gauge has no input to the ecu, it only works the in-dash boost gauge.

I'd need more info on that other taped up harness to give an opinion.

Put a wire between the connections at the base of the relay to pretend it's the relay.

Alright I will give that a go.

Done. Fuel pump works.

Filled my 1.25L bottle attached to the lines in a hurry!

I checked the relay again, it has power on one relay pin. No earth on the other side.

The ECU switches the earth when certain criteria are met to power the fuel pump?

For 5 seconds for prime, then upon a signal from the CAS?

Thanks for the suggestion Ben.

Alright so I guess from here I will continuity check the earth line from the Fuel Pump Relay to ECU pin #18.

If there is continuity, that means everything back from the ECU is fine.

Does anyone know the criteria that the ECU requires to switch the fuel pump earth?

Pin 43.

Start signal to starter solenoid. (when IGN key is turned to the start position)

Thank you for that, I will investigate this tomorrow. What should I expect on Pin #43 when the IGN key is turned to start?

The engine cranks.

It's possible for it to crank but not have the start signal?

Pin 43 will receive a 12V positive input to the ecu, when the IGN key is turned to the start position.

I'm not understanding your problems, thread has wandered a bit since the initial question so perhaps you could give us an update of where you're at now.

Thank you for all the reply's btw!

Still working on this car.

It won't start, figured I would just add a post to this thread instead of starting a new.

I've got a few plugs that I would like identified ^_^

Not starting symptoms;

There is no fuel, i've pulled the lines off and cranked the car over. Nothing comes out.

Initially replaced the fuel pump as I assumed it might have died.

Still no fuel.

Checked fuses, all good.

Checked fuel pump relay in the boot, and the 2 x ign and acc relays in the passenger footwell.

ECU displays a solid red light with accessories on.

Goes out when cranking.

Not sure if this is normal?

attachicon.gifIMG_4261.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4262.JPG

Engine cranks, but doesn't fire. (no fuel obv)

The following plugs are unplugged, as i can't find a home for them.

This one, it's near the power steering fluid reseviour;

attachicon.gifIMG_4257.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4258.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4259.JPG

And this one near the brake master cylinder;

attachicon.gifIMG_4263.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4264.JPG

Also i'm not sure where this wire goes, is it an earth?

attachicon.gifIMG_4256.JPG

Any idea's, or plug identification would be fantastic!

I had hoped that the ECU had no power or something easy, but alas the light made me sad!

Cheers! :D

Here is where i'm up to jiffo.

Yes the thread has wandered, I guess I should have made a new one?

Last night I bridged the fuel pump relay with a wire as suggested and the fuel pump worked.

I do believe this means the issues is with the fuel relay control signal from the ECU?

At this stage I believe that the cause for issue is my ECU.

I borrowed a mate's R33 ECU and the fuel pump prime's, appears to work correctly.

Car cranks and starts but die's after a few seconds.

Once I get a r32 replacement ECU I will continue to troubleshoot.

Thanks for your input

Willis

Alright so tonight I put in a 32 GTST ECU, fuel pump primes correctly. Unlike my old R32 ECU.

Car won't start however.

Cranks, a few cylinders fire. Then dies.

AFM is unplugged.

Swapped out the CAS.

No change.

I'm putting in fresh fuel tomorrow to eliminate that unlikely potential.

I guess I'll track down a fresh fuel filter also.

I've yet remove the CAS and spin and listen for injector tick etc.. guess that's tomorrow also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...