Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm curious if it's worth swapping the os giken close gear as a performance improvement mod ? Could it help make the car feel more responsive ? Most people talk about it as a upgrade after breaking the gearbox oem. I'm more curious about the performance mod of this close gear set. Who tried it back and forth? what is your thought on how it drive ?

I have one and looks like I busted it on Tuesday.

If its a road car YOU MUST HAVE a decent curve otherwise the car will be a nugget. With a nice flat "torquey" curve, it's a great thing.

I swapped between OS and standard numorios times until OS was smashed beyond repair. With stroker and single turbo, once underway it's awesome. But getting off the line in a hurry can be all or nothing due to long first. I did like it tho, you definately notice the difference.

I swapped between OS and standard numorios times until OS was smashed beyond repair. With stroker and single turbo, once underway it's awesome. But getting off the line in a hurry can be all or nothing due to long first. I did like it tho, you definately notice the difference.

What did you do after the OS was busted?

Yeah Joey just put the box in last week and all seems good. Will give it proper test this Thursday ( rally sprint). Not sure what to report unless it breaks.

So Piggaz I'm trying a standard gearset cryoed with billet centre plate. If that fails, not sure what I'll do?

Yeah Joey just put the box in last week and all seems good. Will give it proper test this Thursday ( rally sprint). Not sure what to report unless it breaks.

So Piggaz I'm trying a standard gearset cryoed with billet centre plate. If that fails, not sure what I'll do?

I Guess theres no real way to know unless it does break lol, how much power is getting put through this transmission?

what clutch and tyre set up is being used?

thanks

About 600rwhp, semi slicks at the track and a gearbox munching OS Giken R3C triple plate. Which I hope to replace with Nismo copper mix before it takes this box out. Altho I looked at it the other day whilst box was out and after about 40k kms, hundreds of launches and half dozen gearboxes it doesn't look like wearing out any time soon.

About 600rwhp, semi slicks at the track and a gearbox munching OS Giken R3C triple plate. Which I hope to replace with Nismo copper mix before it takes this box out. Altho I looked at it the other day whilst box was out and after about 40k kms, hundreds of launches and half dozen gearboxes it doesn't look like wearing out any time soon.

good to know, this is approximately the power ill be making and im also using a copper mix... will be very interesting to see how this goes

I was having a think about this lately as my second gearbox is rattling around a bit. I was thinking going shorter diff gears and maybe seeing if I could keep the stock 1-4 gears and going a longer 5th for cruising. Also triple plate clutches or high clamping force singles smash boxes so a nismo or the new organic twin plates seem to be more forgiving.

Maybe an option to consider rather than a close ratio gearbox.

That R3C thing is one hardcore clutch.

The Nismo will an awesome "upgrade" and definitely help with boxes staying together.

so hardcore it left impressions on the input shaft.

I'll get a picture with both plates to show how much flex has been taken out of the system.

I was having a think about this lately as my second gearbox is rattling around a bit. I was thinking going shorter diff gears and maybe seeing if I could keep the stock 1-4 gears and going a longer 5th for cruising. Also triple plate clutches or high clamping force singles smash boxes so a nismo or the new organic twin plates seem to be more forgiving.

Maybe an option to consider rather than a close ratio gearbox.

That would make 1st crazy short

That would make 1st crazy short

Yeah but I think the op is wanting response, so I assume he is talking about 2nd to 4th gear more than anything. And it would help keep the -5 on song especially in the tight stuff where you can't grab 1 but would like to.

i could be thinking about this all wrong.. but wouldn't that just shorten all the gears by the same amount and not actually make the gap between gears closer, therefore not making a closer ratio ?

Edited by tricstar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...