Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, wanted to finish the car and drive it a little before I threw this up.

have been driving for 1700kms now, with no real adverse affects**

so, welcome all to my 30mm subframe drop thread.

any questions you have, throw them in here, and I will try and answer as quickly and honestly as possible.

please keep in mind, I doubt this is legal.

these havnt been "engineered" yet.

I will try one day, but havnt had the time/money associated to do so.

I will try and include any info I can that helped/hindered myself when doing this.

the spacers I used were made by a race/rally car engineer, and calculated that the stud the mount to would snap before the shank nut.

so, here we go....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/
Share on other sites

1st, why did I want to space?

easy, I didn't want to cut my bonnet.

for that one, simple reason I undertook this task.

now, as many know, you don't have to cut bonnets in a 33/34, but 32s, its pretty much the only option.

some other advantages:

-if done right, exhaust should line up to near factory*.

-turbo to guard pipe should line up*.

-guard to plenum should line up*.

-looks more factory(to a degree), as the motor is still roughly the same spacing from and strut bars.

some disadvantages:

-cooling fan no longer lines up.

-slight slope to motor.

-cant lower car**.

*should has been used, as I went with a single turbo conversion, so am unsure of pipework.

I also changed to a Greddy plenum ive had on the shelf for years, waiting for the build.

**cant/shouldn't lower the car more, as due to the engine being lower, the cvs are at a lower angle already.

so, in essence, dropping the subframe 30mm, is like lowering the car the same amount.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096833
Share on other sites

2nd, why not lower the engine on the mounts and run no cam cover, or cut bonnet bracing?

I have lowered the engine in the mounts(die grinded mount holes).

I wanted the cam cover for the fact it keeps debris out, and less attention.

And as stated, I DIDNT want to cut the bonnet in any way.

everything I have done can be reversed.

all can be put back to standard.

that's the way I wanted it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096835
Share on other sites

now, for process and pics.

first, the spacers themselves...

the spacer was made in 3 parts, 20mm, 5mm, 5mm totalling 30mm all up.

the reason for this was so, if the whole 30 was not needed, the height could be adjusted.

height can be 30, 25, 20, 10 and 5mm(just swapping the pieces around.

the top spacer is actually the washer for the nut.

5OzMl0K.jpg

a shank style nut was used so it would have the greatest thread contact area, whilst also locating the spacers themselves.

ointQrz.jpg

the extra height on the nut is just under the thickness of the subframe itself.

g3c6i39.jpg

and all done in the box when picked up.

5gppX6Y.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096856
Share on other sites

Lower the engine? The spacer plate to convert the 2wd block to 4wd already brings the sump a CM closer to the subframe stuffing up that idea.

I think the way you did it is the best way, the more i think about it the more logical it becomes.

The best part is if running a heavy clutch, you can still use the factory booster, im not a big fan of building the left leg, prefer to build the center one instead. :P

Come on man, get some pics happening. :)

Edit, you just put them up as i posted. LOL

Edited by GTRPSI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096858
Share on other sites

during the install, had to lower the whole subframe evenly.

then, enlarge the holes for the shank nut.

I used a stepped drill bit.

worked very well to get to thhe size needed.

also went a little oversize as the original holes were bigger, and allowed for any differences.

DjpAUo5.jpg

r2MwSWI.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096873
Share on other sites

ok, so now installed.

keep in mind, the factory uses pinch nuts to lock them.

USE LOCTITE!!!

you don't want a subframe coming loose.

NGx5ks3.jpg

3wJnKbO.jpg

XZ270cp.jpg

F7paGWx.jpg

also, the steering column required extra length.

this was a temporary solution to push the car in and out.

was thinking about it for use, but the torque put on those bolts would eventually snap them.

PPBLyIa.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096878
Share on other sites

FINALY......

I do have a driveline vibration.

thoughts were it was from the tailshaft angle.

so, I used spacers and extended bolts to space the gearbox crossmember down, and the centre bearing down.

its only under power.

more noticeable in 3rd.

cant be felt at cruising speeds or loads.

could be in gearbox, as ive got a new gearbox in the car.

could also be tyres, as they literally sat in the one spot for 8 months, ad have flatspotted.

either way, id recommend spacing the gearbox xmember and centre bearing carrier.

also, the lines on the hicas pump/valve will give the 30mm needed.

so will the steer return lines.

as stated, you can no longer use the factory fan.

electric thermo fans will be required.

hope you all enjoyed the read.

again, post any questions, and ill try and answer them.

if in the Sydney area, come to one of the runs and have a look.

thanks for reading.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096968
Share on other sites

Luke that is one filthy engine bay! Get some degreaser on that shit!

Good work though, nice write up and good piccies!

thanks mate.

and why bother cleaning the bay when its going to get dirty again? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7096999
Share on other sites

Very good thread Luke, great work, should be made a sticky.

There are a few forums on the web that talk about using a single 10mm spacer, but using a 30mm one only leaves the top 8mm higher than factory, more than enough room to close the bonnet and some more for spare.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7097091
Share on other sites

Very good thread Luke, great work, should be made a sticky.

There are a few forums on the web that talk about using a single 10mm spacer, but using a 30mm one only leaves the top 8mm higher than factory, more than enough room to close the bonnet and some more for spare.

dont forget I elongated the engine mount holes, so should be same height now.

even with that, and the sump adapter, I have clearance between the sump and X member

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434617-spacers-you-bet/#findComment-7097669
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...