Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Ive been speaking to a friend of mine about importing some cars from UK to Aus. Ideally I would like to get them over to sell but I need to know the rules on the aussie end of things as the gov websites are quite confusing.

My friend has been exporting from UK for years so he knows what to do his end but has no idea what happens after shipping.

I will be located in WA if that makes any difference to the rules?

One of the questions I have is what test and mods are needed to allow the car to be roadworthy in aus?

Are there restrictions on Supras, skylines and other high end jap or even german cars?

How much does it generally cost to impot the car (Assuming all export fees, shipping etc have already been covered)

Thanks for any advice given

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434757-importing-from-uk-as-individual/
Share on other sites

Hi all

Ive been speaking to a friend of mine about importing some cars from UK to Aus. Ideally I would like to get them over to sell but I need to know the rules on the aussie end of things as the gov websites are quite confusing.

My friend has been exporting from UK for years so he knows what to do his end but has no idea what happens after shipping.

I will be located in WA if that makes any difference to the rules?

One of the questions I have is what test and mods are needed to allow the car to be roadworthy in aus?

Are there restrictions on Supras, skylines and other high end jap or even german cars?

How much does it generally cost to impot the car (Assuming all export fees, shipping etc have already been covered)

Thanks for any advice given

I recommend doing a lot of reading.

A brief run down. Assuming you are bringing in cars that are post-1989, you are going to want to bring cars in through Specialists Enthusiasts Vehicle Scheme.

1.You will need to find out if the car you are bringing in is on the eligible list. You also need to make sure the car has no accident damage history, no structural rust, and no extensive mods.

2.Then find a compliance shop that has plates to comply.

3. Once purchased, (or before), you will need to apply for approval. The compliance shop will do this on your behalf.

4. Car is shipped.

5. Car arrives. Customs broker assists with getting car released.

6. Pay tax, shipping, customs fees, and tax again.

7. Transport car to workshop - car is complied to meet ADRs.

8. Register car.

A lot of variables affect price.

Edited by BigWillieStyles

Hi OP, we deal with this stuff on a daily basis - flick us an email via kristian(at)ironladyimports.com for more info. We normally deal with personal imports through that arm of the business, but a number of top end cars via SEVS too.

Edited by Iron Chef

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...