Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Having a slight issue with my 260rs stagea

just whenever im driving and im at say 3000 rpm or upwards

if I clutch in to slow down (so the revs drop quickly) the engine cuts out and stalls

but if I engine brake and bring the revs down gradually there's no issue at all

any ideas??

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/
Share on other sites

yea i already tried 2 known working afms with no difference =/

other thing i noticed yesterday is ive got oil spray that looks to be coming out of my dipstick tube, which ive nailed down to bad PCV valve

im going to change the PCV valve anyway but do you think that could have something to do with it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/#findComment-7105866
Share on other sites

Yea its still on the factory set up so recirculates back to just before the turbos

I've already tried a pair of new bovs (26's have 2) with no difference

But its more related to rpm that boost pressure

example if im just rolling at 4k rpm, so im on vacuum it will still stall out if I clutch in or shift to neutral =/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/#findComment-7106587
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have u cleaned ur aac? Sometimes the solinoid sticks and doesnt open the air valve. Easy way ro check is on idle unplug it and if it drops off u have found ur cause. Could also be the tps not telling the computer that the throttle is closed. Basicly an on and off switch.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/#findComment-7117546
Share on other sites

Have u cleaned ur aac? Sometimes the solinoid sticks and doesnt open the air valve. Easy way ro check is on idle unplug it and if it drops off u have found ur cause. Could also be the tps not telling the computer that the throttle is closed. Basicly an on and off switch.

boom! simple as that got it sorted by the looks of things :)

pulled the aac out and gave it a clean plus a dose of some WD-40 and so far today it seems to be driving fine

as well as that ...the other issue i had with the oil spraying out of my dipstick tube seems to be gone too.... seems odd that they could be related doesnt it ?

I got the same problem with r33 (rb25det)... Using my ecru software I monitored the car when it does it and the voltage readings drop to low 13's.

got mine sorted no worries .....worth having a look at maybe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/#findComment-7118732
Share on other sites

boom! simple as that got it sorted by the looks of things :)

pulled the aac out and gave it a clean plus a dose of some WD-40 and so far today it seems to be driving fine

as well as that ...the other issue i had with the oil spraying out of my dipstick tube seems to be gone too.... seems odd that they could be related doesnt it ?

got mine sorted no worries .....worth having a look at maybe

Hopefully it's gone for good!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434818-rb26-stalling/#findComment-7118733
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
×
×
  • Create New...