Dyno Run R33 Gts-T 1994

[Nashey]

HI All!! just though i would share with everyone my Car and what she made and mods! post what you have , i would like to see what others are running!

im from WA Bunbury

Got it dyno tuned yesterday (Monday)

Mods are

Garret High Flow GT3076R from Adelaide Turbo Service with Factory Rear and front housing

Nismo 740CC Inj

Exeedy Heavy Duty Clutch

Walbro Fuel Pump

Custom Stainless Intake with Cold air induction

Autobahn88 front mount intercooler

K&N Pod Filter

Spitfire coil packs

Iridium spark plugs gapped to .08

Full turbo back split dump HKS 3 inch Exhaust with hot dog and streight through rear (Milo Tin)

HDI Electronic Boost Controller with high and low settting

Haltech Platium Pro ECU

It was a very hot day yesterday! outside temp was around 32 Degrees, the dyno room was 38.5 so it was hot!!! so that would effect the tune a litte bit..

on 19psi i made 359.2 RWHP , took it for a drive and it was nice but didnt like it very much to much wheel spin, so wound it back to 17 PSI which was the sweet spot between good traction and no traction for Final Run and it pulled 337.3RWHP on 17PSI i was happy with that, i can wind it up have a little play if i want as it was tuned to 19PSI

on 10PSI LOW Setting i made 278RWHP

Thanks!!

[LTHLRB]

Rb25 dyno thread and results at the top is where it's at. Plenty of info shared there

[ARTZ]

[89CAL]

The dyno adjusts the power reading to suit the ambient temp. Unless their ambient temp sensor is out of wack/not there. Theres a crewman ute here that a dodgy workshop claimed was the most powerful in the country, but its easy to claim that when the ambient temp is 50-60 degrees c. Funny things happen when you put the probe near the exhaust.

Also next time you do plugs, bin the iridiums and go copper. They really work just as good and are a quarter of the price or less

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

now now, play nice.. at least he didn't ask how much boost I can run with my stock ecu & turbo

[Nashey]

Thanks for the info 89CAL, i have never actualy tried the copper plugs... there are so many talks about the 2 and whats best to run...

The tuner who tuned my car deserves a pat on the back , alot of people are all about numbers and never appreciate the actual tune the tuner has done.

90% of the tune is bedding them in, the last 10% is the horsepower runns making people happy when they see bigger numbers, sure i could of got bigger HP but that means running a more aggressive tune. which i didnt want. my car starts perfect everymorning, i work early starting at 4:30 and its super cold.. but She starts and goes like a standerd car!. but when i want the power is there running perfect mixtures so i know that it wont go bang!

my setup is perfect for street/track. the highflow starts to taper off higher in the higher speed, but would like to take it down a quater mile and see what it does!

[niZmO_Man]

Thanks for the info 89CAL, i have never actualy tried the copper plugs... there are so many talks about the 2 and whats best to run...

Copper plugs cost around $3 each, the iridium and platinum ones are what, $30-40 each? What harm is there in trying copper? The expensive plugs last longer, but for the price offset I don't think they're worth it. Copper ones arc better anyway, and are cheap enough to replace every 30,000km or whenever.

[Kane_R32]

Copper plugs cost around $3 each, the iridium and platinum ones are what, $30-40 each? What harm is there in trying copper? The expensive plugs last longer, but for the price offset I don't think they're worth it. Copper ones arc better anyway, and are cheap enough to replace every 30,000km or whenever.

I would be lucky to travel 3000km per year, but I wouldnt wait 10 years to change. For $18/set, every 12 months works for me.

[scotty nm35]

Copper plugs cost around $3 each, the iridium and platinum ones are what, $30-40 each?

Last set of Iridiums I got from the US were $10 a plug each, delivered, and VQ engine LFR's are much less common.

When you are melting copper plugs from running massive cylinder pressure and high heat you may appreciate the Iridiums a little more. Coppers are for stock cars running rich shitty tunes imo, as they are cheaper to change when they foul. That's why tuners recommend them I think. I guess every engine design would be different too, my VQ has much better plug cooling than the RB, as the thread is twice as long.

[89CAL]

Ive never had any issues with copper plugs and know many people with the same story

[Glynn82]

I think if your melting coppers then you've got some other issues... Copper melts at 1085 c and aluminum melts at like 660ish maybe try using a different heat range copper. I know guys that have pushed past 400rwkw using coppers with no problems

[scotty nm35]

You have used aluminium plugs?

You know the price of 8-10 heatrange racing plugs? Around $40 a plug last I checked, and they needed to be specially ordered in.

My NGK LFR7 Iridiums are handling everything i can throw at them, the last set of Denso iridium IKH22 7's melted in just 5000k's.

[Glynn82]

No but my head and pistons are aluminum and whilst they have a larger surface area and also have the luxury of a boundary layer I would say that if your making enough heat to melt coppers your making enough heat to damage your head and pistons. Det much?

[scotty nm35]

Ahhh ok.... My engine has been pushing 30-40 psi on ethanol for 4+ years now, daily, Should I check the pistons again? They looked fine when I changed the head gasket last.

My block is alloy too, with a sleeve bore, should I be worried much?

[Glynn82]

So if your pushing 30-40 psi on ethanol in a vq what does that have to do with a rb using coppers on ulp on the street? I work on engines that only have 2 plugs no pistons and run 1800shp at 60,000 rpm using jet a1 but that has nothing todo with an rb using ulp on the street so what's the point in mentioning it? Coppers run fine in rb's at over 400 rwkw on ulp.

[scotty nm35]

The point I already made was... Iridiums are simply better. They handle high heat conditions much longer than copper, and you don't need to change them out every 5000. For just double the price they would pay themselves off many times over.

Now you need to mention that bullshit about coppers making more power....

[Glynn82]

I never said coppers make more power. Spark is spark, as long as its sufficient to create full combustion it really doesn't matter. 1 electrode plugs to 1 million electrode plugs bugger all difference. Electricity will always take the path of least resistance. Coppers are cheap, they work fine at higher levels of power than 90% of people will see and if changing cheap plugs every 5000 kms is to hard then pay an exorbitant amount for fully sick plugs for your street car (we are talking about street cars here)

[scotty nm35]

Yep, street cars. Mine is no 2 ton race car. lol.

I think all modern street cars run Iridium or Platinum these days for the cleaner burn and longer servicing times.

How many people would seriously want to change plugs more often than oil? Most of the servicing I carry out, the cars have done 10-15,000 between oil changes.

[Glynn82]

I change my oil every 5000 like most people I know. It's just part of regular maintenance. The op doesn't have a 2 ton race car so suggesting coppers isn't a problem and what modern cars come with iridiums standard?

[89CAL]

I do oil change every 5000km, do plugs about every 20,000km. But I have left them longer at times and never had an issue with the coppers.

I'm sure the Iridiums are fine, and last longer. But I don't believe they last as long as they are advertised

My view is that coppers work just as well and are alot cheaper, so thats what I do. Not saying that they are the best thing out there, but they definently work for the power levels most of us are running. At the same time though, I can get to my plugs alot easier without the standard manifold and piping