Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 < Rb25 Turbo Upgrade

Leeroy94

By Leeroy94,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Leeroy94 Enthusiast

Leeroy94

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll consult a tuner before the install to look at my fuel pressures etc.

Is this nipple on the IC piping going to the intake plenum? I have a strange thing poking out of the piping already that almost looks like a spark plug. My original thoughts were that it was just screwed in to seal up the screw hole that's there so maybe this is the nipple that your talking about?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Is this nipple on the IC piping going to the intake plenum? I have a strange thing poking out of the piping already that almost looks like a spark plug. My original thoughts were that it was just screwed in to seal up the screw hole that's there so maybe this is the nipple that your talking about?

No. On RB20 turbo it is a small brass hose barb coming off a boss on the front of the compressor housing. The boss is there on RB25 turbos, but it is not drilled and the barb is obviously not there. On RB25s they fitted the tapping onto the intercooler pipe. It won't be on your pipework as standard. If you have something it will be because someone added, perhaps for a different boost controller iinstallation.

The hose is only 6mm, or possibly even 4mm ID. The hose (stock) goes direct from the hose barb to the wastegate actuator. If a boost controller is installed then it goes via the boost controller before heading to the actuator.

  • Like 1
Even_Flow Enthusiast

Even_Flow

Posted
Posted

Also I have been told to install that nipple closest to the turbo as possible(or there abouts) for an accurate WG actuator reaction. So in between the turbo outlet and intercooler or 'the hot pipes'

  • Like 1
Joshbigt62r Proficient

Joshbigt62r

Posted
Posted

My opinion is you should really get a tune done if you plan to run more boost than say 10 psi on the 25 turbo on a rb20. Im not up to date with pricing on Nistune boards but is the $990 you stated earlier on the Nistune board installed + tuned? Im guessing it is.???

my suggestion to you is try and find some 444cc standard GTR injectors which come up in the F/S section all the time. Im pretty sure there a direct bolt in, although you may also need the GTR resistor pack. Another member can confirm??? Get the nistune installed and tuned and enjoy. Getting it tuned will make a reasonable difference to power/torque/drivabilitly/engine longertivity and overall better fuel consumption as has been stated.

I could say more but out of time have to go back to work.

Josh

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I remember a forum member name CEFF13 or something similar had pre-made safe tunes (pretty rich and ignition wasn't too advance) for RB20DET with usual bolt ons and a RB25DET turbo for like $150 delivered, including the IC socket etc...

All you needed to do was desolder your old chip and pop in the new one.

I used one back in the days and managed 180 ish kWs at a dyno day.

  • Like 1
Leeroy94 Enthusiast

Leeroy94

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah okay.. I guess the only thing I can do right now is install the 25 turbo..

Next track night (yes its a track car) is next friday on the 22nd. So I might attempt the installation the following week.

Ill post results of installation.

Even_Flow Enthusiast

Even_Flow

Posted
Posted (edited)

I also found out yesterday that my 20 turbo elbow doesn't fit my 25 turbo.... Swear I read somewhere they were the same size??? I found the 20 elbow was marginally smaller....

Edited by Even_Flow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...