Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well mitch if your looking at keeping your car for the long term then a zorst & set of extractors r a good start with a hiflow cat converter + with a little more power u might want to look into a lowering kit shockys & springs sway bars +

watch the rear control arm bushings they tend to wear out & split & you get free movement of the diff.

Ball joints/control arms on the front are another area to watch/check too if the car has been driven hard the ball joint shockets will have free play around the ball joint making it look like u have floged ball joints but is really the arms.

How ever the arms can be sorted with out new items being sorced by way of welding the ball joints in place I would not recommend this being done if you have the money get a set or one from the wrecker

Hope that helps mate

:rant: Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-890008
Share on other sites

Hi mitch94.. fancy bumping into you here :)

I'm the one that's been advising you on mods (and wheels) on the SVD forums :(

As far as "cheap" mods go, there are a lot around... but free ones, well.... air box mod is about the only "free" mod, provided you can find the bits you need for it.

(One tricky way of doing it is cutting a hole in the top of the air box, then swivelling it around to face forward)

Even something as simple as advancing the timing will probably end up costing you money, chances are good that if you advance the timing, it will cause the car to ping, and you will need to run premium instead of regular fuel.

The laws of physics say that "for every action, there is an equal but opposite re-action"

......in the land of cars, all that means is "if you want power, it's going to cost" :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-890709
Share on other sites

cheap to some can be $5 to $5000, and cheap can cost more in the long run, basics are the best,air induction,leads,plugs,extractors,exhaust or maybe handling shocks,springs, sway bars even a good set of tyres can make a world of difference! it all will cost $$$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-892098
Share on other sites

extractors are a nice upgrade.. and you can get them nice and cheaply 2nd hand. Just the other day i sold rsx84 above a set for $100, so that is a fairly cheap upgrade :)

My old R31 didn't have extractors or exhaust system, my current one does, and sounds and goes a noticeable amount better. Mainly the sound :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-897800
Share on other sites

put a manual gearbox in (seriously) $1000 on the cheap

Go to 16x7 or 16x8 or 17x7 wheels with good tyres. $500 - $5000

Good brake pads, good fluid $300 +

Suspension - $1000 - $5000 (lowerd springs, aftermarket shocks, swaybars, strut brace, strut tops)

Headwork, cam, chipped ecu - $2000

Depends what you mean by faster. If you mean "a tiny tiny bit faster in a straight line, which youll hardly notice" the do the exhaust, intake, wind the timing up. If you want to notice the increase but still be slow, do the head cam and chip.

If you want to make the car safer, faster through corners, on mountain runs, in time trials, and heaps more fun to drive - do the brakes and suspension. If you can afford to do brakes and suspension, and still have some $ to make it manual and up the power a little bit, do it.

Ive gone down the brakes/suspension path, with exhaust/intake/timing, and I am the quickest @ the Mt Cotton Driver training Centre time trials, mainly against R33 GTS-t's.

Leave the brakes and suspension stock, and no matter what you do to the motor, the car is still going to suck unless you are going straight ahead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-908440
Share on other sites

Aussie four door r31's have a tendancy to handle like a boat. Suspension is one thing I recommend. Extractors, Zorst and Pod do well. Keep your ignition system in good nic and it'll definately move better.

My r31 sits real high at the moment and handles like a Toyota Landcruiser. have to slow down for every corner. but it does help when i want to drive over things!

-jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-908492
Share on other sites

after about the 6th item it starts getting more expensive. A 2 1/2 exhaust might drone abit so you might have to get a resonator. Your going to have to spend some money to get good power out of an rb30e.

-K&N pod filter with CAI

-mandril bent 2 1/2 exhaust + high flow cat ( your old cat is probably dead )

-extractors ( you can get some 2nd hand for as little as $100 ) Pacemaker ones are one of the better brand extractors that you can get.

-advance the timing 20 degrees BTDC

-XF throttle body

-4.11 diff ratio

-Different cam - Nizpro= cam/lifters $770 ( might need a chip for the ecu )

-head port and polish - i think around $400

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-918659
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...