Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb20 30 row cooler with 10/40 racing penrite , highest i've seen is 120 generally cool down lap on 100c.

currently added a 2nd oil cooler and dont see temps above 70c.....

Edited by Dan_J

Suppose I'll chime in

SR20 290kw

19 row cooler, ducted sorta povo style.

GW synx6000 5-40

Highest temp I've seen is 105 degrees after a full on 15 min session at Wakefield. Water and oil will sit dead on 70 on the freeway all day.

with a cooler that big I'd be looking long and hard at it, then tell someone to fix it !

I do all my own spanner work, no-one is touching this VQ but me. :P

As I was measuring the temp into the cooler, inside the 12an lines, I figured the thermostat was wide open. I should check it's operation again just to make sure, but it holds 82 degrees pretty constantly on the road. I think the oil is just picking up the heat from the pistons and transferring it away. To lower the piston temp I should just run less boost at the track I guess, but where's the fun in that... It's a great feeling blasting past GTR's at 40psi. :P

Found that the air temp sensor was cutting ignition as the air was too hot. Oil temp wasn't my issue at all. It doesnt have a gauge for plenum air temp. (didn't think i really needed it) it may have just been that it was a hot day and was right up the back of an elfin that weighed about 650kgs, when I'm still pushing 1250kgs around. Those things are so god dam quick out of the corners.

are you guys all running thermostats? (I know it's a little pointless on the track) but are there any real downsides?

just for warming up the car i guess. If its track-only you'd be alright. But street driven you'd have to give it a while to warm up

SR20 PWR core radiotor (not sure how big), oil cooler running 10W40 royal purple and hottest I ever got it was a 30 degree day at Winton hit like 115 or near abouts. Will be testing out a 5W40 Motul racing oil when new engine is run-in, then going to try the Penrite and if there isnt much of a difference will switch to Penrite.

are you guys all running thermostats? (I know it's a little pointless on the track) but are there any real downsides?

not using any thermostat... yeah as what Leroy mentioned... its purely for warming up the car..

all u need to be mindful of after taking it out ...is to let car warm up (takes a while more) before putting the pedal to the metal. on track, the thermostat would probably hamper flow. worst case scenario... if it jams, temps be sky high...

i have been thinking about my recent oil temp rises

after reading this thread i recon my thermostat is sticking for some reason, can be the only reason for seeing 130 degrees in 3 laps last time out

as its never gone above 110 even after 20 laps previously

it could be... try taking it out and see how it goes :thumbsup:

I do all my own spanner work, no-one is touching this VQ but me. :P

As I was measuring the temp into the cooler, inside the 12an lines, I figured the thermostat was wide open. I should check it's operation again just to make sure, but it holds 82 degrees pretty constantly on the road. I think the oil is just picking up the heat from the pistons and transferring it away. To lower the piston temp I should just run less boost at the track I guess, but where's the fun in that... It's a great feeling blasting past GTR's at 40psi. :P

Haha yeah me to, a lesson I learnt a long time ago, no apprentices will ever touch my cars

What's the temp coming out of the cooler, mmmmVQs, I'll put the VQ30DET I have in my 32 one day

Haha yeah me to, a lesson I learnt a long time ago, no apprentices will ever touch my cars

What's the temp coming out of the cooler, mmmmVQs, I'll put the VQ30DET I have in my 32 one day

No idea what the temp coming out of the cooler is, perhaps I should swap the hoses around next track day.

I am about to flush the coolant with Evans and see how that goes, waterless coolants have always intrigued me so I finally put some money down for it, to stop the common VQ flash boiling issue around the bore. Hopefully this will help keep coolant temps more stable. Any reason I can't run 150 degree coolant and oil on track do you think? As long at the coolant won't boil and the good synthetic oil won't lose it's properties... I can't see an issue with it.

We both saw the Perth 32 gtst dyno graph with a stock VQ30det/to4z didn't we? ;) (first page of the dyno thread) It went for a year at 24psi before lifting the head, at 430kw. All it needed was the gasket replaced and ARP head studs.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone considered running an intercooler water spray for their oil cooler to get temps further down?

Maybe even an intercooler water spray that has a split barb to spray both the intercooler and oil cooler

Was thinking along the lines of this as it uses the existing wiper fluid bottle and off the shelf parts:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2720/article.html

Bandaid fix. Water spray would run out very quickly.

Spend the money in the right area, namely the biggest oil cooler you can fit and decent ducting that forces air through the core. Sandwiching the oil cooler between intercooler and radiator won't do the job.

I used nulon 10W60 at barbagello a couple times, after 4 fast laps i was seeing 115 degrees oil and water temp with a chinese 19 row oil cooler, filter relocator and a 52mm chinese aluminium radiator , 250rwkw rb25. I dont get how people use a 5w40 or 10w40 for 20-30 minute stints on the track. I thought they would turn into a watery consistency after 110-120 degrees?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...