Oil Temp On Track

[dnegative]

And this is based on what, because you have never lost an engine and it appears to run cooler?

Its like saying lets all smoke ice because my mate did it for years and he is sweet.

Incorrect

Magna tech loves it

[fatz]

And this is based on what, because you have never lost an engine and it appears to run cooler?

Its like saying lets all smoke ice because my mate did it for years and he is sweet.

i only like ice in my drinks

i only been tracking gtr for the last 14 years trying heaps of diffrent oils at different price points

so i have no idea, what do you recomend for a 15 year old rb26, i am always happy to try new things.

ps i have lost 3 engines in those 14 years

1) blew stock turbo which killed number 5's compression (i rebuilt this one and used expensive thinner oil as it was a new engine)

2) cracked piston due to lean out in 4 and 5

3) head gasket ( not really a blow up)

[dnegative]

It might work for you and you found it through your own conclusions but I dont think its sound avice to be giving people. There is enough shit on the internet as is, do we really need people thinking and telling others that magnatec is the best oil for race RB motors?

Edited January 8, 2014 by dnegative

[Neil]

Well I've been using it for many many years,,,,countless track days and tons of racing and my engine is still it tact. The sump and head have never ever been removed so I think it's sound advice mate.

I think you have to remember that we are posting in the motorsport section and as motorsport freeks we are changing oils after every meeting.

I'm not saying it's the best oil on the market but it's cheaper,,,and I have great oil pressure/temp and water temps so it's doing the job as far as I'm concerned.

What would you recommend????.

Cheers

Neil.

[scotty nm35]

I used nulon 10W60 at barbagello a couple times, after 4 fast laps i was seeing 115 degrees oil and water temp with a chinese 19 row oil cooler, filter relocator and a 52mm chinese aluminium radiator , 250rwkw rb25. I dont get how people use a 5w40 or 10w40 for 20-30 minute stints on the track. I thought they would turn into a watery consistency after 110-120 degrees?

It's the film strength that protects the bearings, not the viscosity. (F1 cars run a straight 10 weight I am told...) As long as you use a good quality synthetic and drop the oil regularly, I can't see a problem with it myself. I still want to cool the oil further and will be looking at a secondary 30 row core if I track the whale again.

I have been asked to try Liqui Moly 10w60 Race Tech next time out, apparently it loves the high temps. I will be running a waterless coolant also to combat the flash boiling I am getting in the head and bore. Damn alloy block.

[fatz]

Yea what Neil said

[dnegative]

What would you recommend????.

For a Nissan, only the best

Edited January 9, 2014 by dnegative

[Neil]

For a Nissan, only the best

Your link doesn't work for me tiger,,,please I'm interested to know your opinion,,,what with 22 posts and Toyota power.

Cheers

Neil.

[fatz]

Yea link no work... Learn me please

[dnegative]

Pure mineral oil, perfect for racing!

Give it a crack, I recommend it.

Edited January 9, 2014 by dnegative

[fatz]

We that's not very helpfull, where do they sell this brand of oil?

[Neil]

It's sold at Toyota/Lexus outlets,,,it's now been re-badged as turd,,,oh sorry TRD oil.

Cheers

Neil.

[r33_racer]

Scott are you going to run a higher pressure radiator cap? If you can get like a 25-30psi cap that should help push the boiling point to somewhere near what you are talking about.

We run Prolube 15-50 mineral oil, its cheap (about $80 for 20L)and works well with methanol. But water and oil never really go above 100c. Typically sits around 85-90c. I welded in the biggest oil cooler I could fit inside the side tank of the radiator working as a heat exchanger. Seems to work pretty good.

[JimmyRickard]

ive been running it for years in track gtrs

never had a drama, only changes top penrit because the priice of magnatch went up

What penrite do you run pete? I went to buy some cheap penrite but ended up with the most expensive one, 10w40 ten tenths or some shit and it cost $70/L.

[niZmO_Man]

I spotted a bottle of Racing 10 last time

My oil temps went beyond 130°C and obviously water temps went beyond 100°C and the car survived (drove home), so the oil (Racing 10) is pretty decent in my opinion.

[Leroy Peterson]

What penrite do you run pete? I went to buy some cheap penrite but ended up with the most expensive one, 10w40 ten tenths or some shit and it cost $70/L.

they have high performance oil for under $80 5L. Cant remember if it was the 10tenths. maybe you grabbed the 10tenths premium?

I plan on doing some comparison in temps and kms/condition between the Motul 8100 and the penrite stuff in the sub $80 5L bracket. Used to use royal purple, but a bitch to source.

[scotty nm35]

Scott are you going to run a higher pressure radiator cap? If you can get like a 25-30psi cap that should help push the boiling point to somewhere near what you are talking about.

We run Prolube 15-50 mineral oil, its cheap (about $80 for 20L)and works well with methanol. But water and oil never really go above 100c. Typically sits around 85-90c. I welded in the biggest oil cooler I could fit inside the side tank of the radiator working as a heat exchanger. Seems to work pretty good.

The waterless coolant I have now doesn't actually build pressure.Should be interesting to be able to pop the cap when it's at 140 degrees.

The problem is the all alloy block, there is no thermal mass to absorb heat like with cast iron, the alloy just transfers the heat to the oil/water. At least I shouldn't have head gasket issues as the block and head should expand at a similar rate.

[JimmyRickard]

Sorry guys that was $70/5L

People in here were talking about oil for $22 a bottle. Considering I'm prepared to drop the oil after every race I would much prefer the cheap shit as long as it doesn't harm my engine.

[r33_racer]

Sounds pretty good!

Let us know how it goes mate.

[MrStabby]

Sorry guys that was $70/5L

People in here were talking about oil for $22 a bottle. Considering I'm prepared to drop the oil after every race I would much prefer the cheap shit as long as it doesn't harm my engine.

The way to tell if the oil is still usable is to get a used oil analysis. It will also offer some clues as to whether the engine is wearing at a faster than normal rate, but you really need to read the trend across a few UOAs to make a definitive interpretation. So I would use a good oil, and only change it when the UOA indicates its getting close to its condemnation point.

The Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 - looks like a great oil. HTHS = 4.49! So its tougher than Motul 300V chrono, Amsoil etc.

The problem with running 50 and 60 weight oils on the track is that the oil filter will be in bypass mode a lot of the time due to the high revs and high viscosity. So that means whatever abrasive crap is in your oil keep circulating through the motor over and over (unless you do something to address that issue). However, if the engine is worn out and has low oil pressure issues then running a heavier oil is sensible.