Jump to content
SAU Community

Camber Arms , Wheel Fitment R32 Gtst

pdot
 Share

Recommended Posts

pdot Contributor

pdot

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone,

Thought I would see what the masses thought before we came up with a plan of attack / started spending money.

Recently we put some new wheels onto an R32 GTST 18X9 on the front, 18X10 (with 255’s) on the rear based on a couple of recommendations and it turns out that it was slightly too aggressive and didn’t quite fit on the rears.

We managed to get the guards rolled out an extra 10mm, wound the suspension stiffness up and managed to get home but I would still not be confident with any big knocks.

What I was wondering if installing rear camber arms would be a good solution to our problem? We can probably raise the rear end slightly as well which should help a little bit so if camber will sort this out are there any reccomendations on camber arms? Currently been looking at Cartel and GKTech. Other option is to flare the guards which I’m not too keen to consider at this stage.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435158-camber-arms-wheel-fitment-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites
260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a pain in the butt. :wacko:

First thing I'd be looking at .................. if I was going down the camber path to address the problem is, how much space do you have on the rears between inner wall & damper strut? Will it be enough to give required comfort clearance between outer rear tyre wall & rolled guard, while retaining happy strut clearance? Also, while camber may solve clearance issues it often causes premature tyre wear. If camber is a viable option (acceptable negative camber vs wear rate) then you could look at adjustable bushes from Whiteline (+/- 0.5 deg) as maybe cheapest option. Alternatively Cusco or Ikeya-Formula for more camber if Whiteline not enough.

Second thing is (shudder) think about going to narrower tyre profile/wheel package. This could in reality be cheapest option in the long run.

My 2c.

Cheers GW

pdot Contributor

pdot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi 260tech, thanks for the input.

The car is primarily only for the track and does get some road use (about 50/50). The only reason new rims were needed was due to a crack in one of them and I think the rims recommended by the store were wider so that’s what we ordered and have hit this problem.

As the car was primarily for track use I thought a degree or so of camber wouldn’t be a bad thing so was open to this idea. I’ll have to check how much clearance is under there and get back to you about that one. I am hoping there is enough clearance and that raising the rear slightly along with a little bit of camber might be the ticket but as you said I need to check the clearance and I’ll get back to you on that one. Any recommendations on acceptable camber levels?

I wish I could just fork out for new rear wheels and have already used the opportunity to get some rims which suited the car so selling and rebuying a smaller width might be tough and will definitely be a last resort.

Thanks again

pdot Contributor

pdot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry about the threads. Somehow created two when i was starting it and couldn't seem to delete one of them so that's my fault.

Definitely don't want to go down the hellastance route so it's sounding like there are two options:

1) 9" rims - definitely will be a lot more cautious about recommendations from the shop going forward - will cost approx about a grand to get in some matching rims and look at selling the current 10" wheels.

2) Widen the guards - what are the options here? Bolt on flares? pulling the guards?

Cheers

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Don't listen to the shop to begin with.

In addition to #2, you can also buy wider guards and have them fitted.

I would personally get 8" wheels for the front and sell the 10" wheels. You can then run 235 and 255 wide tyres (cheaper!).

pdot Contributor

pdot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers #niZmO_Man. What does buying new guards involve? Would that be something along the lines of finding GTR rear guards, installing them and then going through paint issues etc? Seems like a lot of effort for incorrectly sized wheels?

Apologies that this has turned from a camber arms discussion into a Wheels and Body discussion for those thinking that this might now be in the wrong section....

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

10 +20 will fit a gtst depending on what size wheel you do want to run. Will also need a bit of a massage to the factory guards. 235/40 will go on without too much hassle

Definitely don't want to go down the hellastance route

Get your hellaflushstance crap out of here :P

OP, not sure on the guards as I've never done it, but I think you can buy wider fibreglass guards and get them fitted (so I assume they will cut the standard guards to make more room). Ask yourself, do you really want to run 10" wide wheels and 265-285 wide tyres? You can easily fit 9" wide on the back and run 245-255 wide tyres.

pdot Contributor

pdot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yuh, but given that a 235 fits correctly on an 8" wheel......why the hell would you stretch it onto a 10?

Currently it is a 255 on the 10" which is currently sitting on the rears. It has 225's on the 9 at the front but was hoping to be running 235's (F) and 255's ®

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Shoota_77
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • r32-25t
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By r32-25t · Posted

      At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...