R33 And R34 Market And Resale 2013

[Lolrick]

Dear ladies and gents,

I have my heart set on purchasing a Skyline, and have decided that it will be either an R33 gts-t or an R34 gt-t. I understand buying an old turbo import isn't a sound financial move, so i'd like to rationalise the decision. (This will be a daily driver)

I've heard mention of the 'market', where sometimes the cars are easier to sell at higher prices than at other times. Where do you (the experienced experts) feel that the market is? Ideally I want to buy a car in decent condition, drive it and love it for perhaps a year, and then sell it without having significantly reduced the value of the vehicle (let's exclude fuel, scheduled maintenance and government costs). Am i being completely naive to think that i can get most of my money back?

If the answer is "that's plausible", then what vehicle would you suggest I look for? I.e. will a lightly modded R34 Gt-t hold it's value best if purchased currently for $14k? Or should I go for the best deal i can find for a R33 ($8K) and see if i can sell that? It seems the R33 market is relatively saturated, meaning it's easy to find a nice vehicle, but is then harder to sell later on.

For those that say 'it's your own personal preference', I want to point out that I am not particularly skillful as a mechanic (but i'm alright at research!) and have never before pushed a car to it's limits, specifically at corners. I am very eager to learn and try things out. This is one of the main reasons for getting into the skyline - take a few advanced driving courses, see what levels my skills are actually at. For this reason, I am not interested in buying a highly modified, powerful vehicle - stage 1 modding is more than enough for me (for now i guess haha, judging how hard the modding bug bites)

It seems that an R34 will be the best for me, with little 'creature comforts' such as traction control and advanced safety features (being a newer car). However, they seem to fairly rare (I'm west of Sydney, NSW) and command quite a price premium over R33s of similar condition - R34s are currently listed around $14,000, whereas the better R33s are closer to $10,000. I'd love to pay less, of course, but would you say that extra few thousand dollars is worth it for an enthusiastic new-comer?

Should I shell out the capital (i wont need finance) on the newer R34, or will I have the same experience with the R33 with less financial risk? As i said, I will be more than happy emotionally with either car, and can refine my tastes for specs and performance and upgrade later on.

Thank you for taking the time to read all this crap that I've just written, and I can't wait to be a part of this legendary club.

Mick

[GTR-N1]

Hi Mick, Welcome to SAU.

I general, cars of all types suffer a drop in sales over mid December till February due to preoccupation with Christmas, holidays, getting kids ready for school and yards clearing out old stock. Over this time, bargain hunters can feast.

If you're going to buy a R33 or R34 I'd buy it through "For Sale" > "Private Whole Cars only" here on SAU. Issues like regular servicing, maintenance, modifications, dyno reports and blemishes are all sorted.

R33 or R34? Newer is probably better and since less R34s were made than R33s, whilst Nissan back in the late 90s were in financial trouble until Carlos Ghosn was given the reins, the value might remain more stable - or it might be easier to resell later on. However in saying that, R33s can't drop much more anyway, so it's a personal choice. Just get the best example you can find - without necessarily trusting the odometer.

[C4a0s]

would it be better to buy one that u really like and would keep for more than 5 years? 1 year seems rather short and if u are going to mod it.. would be even less financially viable, no?

next would be u cant compare apples to apples cos the R34 and R33 werent different in terms of age only. the wheelbase of the R33 is longer i believe.

personally i prefer the R34

[Lolrick]

Hi Trent, C4a0s, cheers for the quick replies!

I assure you, I've been all over the private whole cars only and carsales. Why do you say those are all sorted? (regular servicing, maintenance, modifications, dyno reports and blemishes) Is it because they're selling internally with SAU, there's more transparency and honesty?

I'd tend to lean towards the R34, only because it's newer (interior and safety are the biggest positives), but I'm pretty picky with how it looks, and currently there isn't much on offer, so this might all come down to how much patience I have (lol, probably not much)

As for keeping it for five years, I don't know if I can make that sort of committment to a car... there's a long list of vehicles i want to get through and have the pleasure of owning! And as I said, i'm not too handy mechanically and these cars are only getting older... that said, I may hold onto it for a while! As for modding, I think that i can show restraint and not throw too much money after it

Either way, I'll be happy with the car, I just want to try and hedge on the future values

[GTR-N1]

SAU owners who have outstanding glaring faults in their cars are more likely to sell their cars through carsales.

Some middle of the road cars might be sold through consignment.

Those that are in good health will attract the correct dollar value reciprocated by trust of the buyer through this car club.

Certain very expensive cars are sold through Unique Cars, Shannon's or through Workshops/Car Yards that reflect such a vehicle.

Then you'll have a blurring across each paradigm/category...

Above all, be patient and do your research/testing. You may find "that" car on your 4th inspection or 24th. By the time you strike "that" car, there should be no doubt.

[djvoodoo]

In accounting terminology, a car is a "depreciating asset". That said, some simply depreciate better over time. I shudder at the fact you can buy a brand new Hyundai and it looses half of it's value after the first couple of years of ownership, in fact, you can buy late 2007-2010ish commodore for less than a 99 r34 gtt.

You should not be buying a car on resale principle alone.... Unless it's an actual classic that is an "appreciating" asset, certainly not a run of the mill Gtst/gtt.

R34 is generally better equipped, doesn't look as dated as the 33, and being newer with the NEO motor, is probably more reliable and economical.

[mick-r34gtt-]

Hi lolrick, if u are still looking around for a nice buy i have a r34gtt 2dr its just been sprayed white with black bonnet and rear scoop, brand new wheels & tyres. Its not had many mods done so u can still play. Its got things such as dvd, recaro seat, front mount intercooler, 3500 stall converter and bigger servos and ect ect 134000k on clock. Runs like a dream very nice to drive.. If u would like a few picsjust leave your mobile number.. Only reason im gunna sell is due to misses!! I was gunna keep car and get rid of her but kids are in the picture!! lol.. Mick r34gtt

[mick-r34gtt-]

Oh yeah im only after around $11500.... It owes me a lot more than that as ive just spent over $5000 in last few weeks... It will be hard to say good bye to my baby..

[Sklyn]

Personally I prefer the 33. but for you 1 year play toy, probably say go 34. either way you are going to lose abut the same on it once you sell (about 1k), provided it remains in the same condition. reliability/age really is irrelevant as it comes down to the condition of the specific car, how its been maintained and or abused, sometimes its just a lemon. If you are "pushing it to it's limits" and modding it, that's what will devalue it more than time.

Basically, if you can find one here from a member of a few years and genuine enthusiast with about 200rwkw and well looked after then you should be on a winner that you don't need to spend more on modding.

buying here gives you the opportunity to research the seller and their posts/history of the car and their reputation. either way get it checked out !!

[Lolrick]

I wouldn't have though that selling through SAU would be so significant, I'll definitely hold out until something pops up on the for sale section

Quick note - can anyone sell me the benefit of importing? I haven't considered it due to the implied hassles, but that said, haven't particularly looked into it

Yeah, depreciation can be bad... though i bought my 380 wholesale and got a ridiculously good deal for a reliable, comfortable car. Which brings up another question - running two cars; would you suggest I keep the 380 in case something renders the Skyline unable to drive? Currently I'm thinking of just letting the family use my car, and having them pay the running costs if they end up using it more.

I'll definitely be looking for an R34 now, though the problem is that i know exactly what i want.. Thanks for the input guys! It seems that overall the differences in resale will be negligible, being that these vehicles are getting old and imported, and that the value will depend solely on their condition - something that will be hard to improve during ownership, and fairly easy to ruin if careless. As the 'slow season' of the christmas period is approaching, I'll look to buy as soon as i can find an example that fits my criteria, and won't bother holding onto it until the 'market' is up or anything - this seems arbitrary and wont make more than a $1000 or so difference, which isn't worth it.

I was under the impression that there were more forces that dictated the skyline values, but it seems to just come under condition. Thanks again guys, looking forward to going on a cruise once i'm comfortable (and actually own) the car

And mick-r34gtt, I'm in NSW, sorry! Not looking to buy interstate (assuming you're in Geelong)

[C4a0s]

I was gunna keep car and get rid of her but kids are in the picture!! lol.. Mick r34gtt

spoken like a true enthusiast.... ROFLMAO

[C4a0s]

I wouldn't have though that selling through SAU would be so significant, I'll definitely hold out until something pops up on the for sale section

Quick note - can anyone sell me the benefit of importing? I haven't considered it due to the implied hassles, but that said, haven't particularly looked into it

Yeah, depreciation can be bad... though i bought my 380 wholesale and got a ridiculously good deal for a reliable, comfortable car. Which brings up another question - running two cars; would you suggest I keep the 380 in case something renders the Skyline unable to drive? Currently I'm thinking of just letting the family use my car, and having them pay the running costs if they end up using it more.

I'll definitely be looking for an R34 now, though the problem is that i know exactly what i want.. Thanks for the input guys! It seems that overall the differences in resale will be negligible, being that these vehicles are getting old and imported, and that the value will depend solely on their condition - something that will be hard to improve during ownership, and fairly easy to ruin if careless. As the 'slow season' of the christmas period is approaching, I'll look to buy as soon as i can find an example that fits my criteria, and won't bother holding onto it until the 'market' is up or anything - this seems arbitrary and wont make more than a $1000 or so difference, which isn't worth it.

I was under the impression that there were more forces that dictated the skyline values, but it seems to just come under condition. Thanks again guys, looking forward to going on a cruise once i'm comfortable (and actually own) the car

And mick-r34gtt, I'm in NSW, sorry! Not looking to buy interstate (assuming you're in Geelong)

i'd like to think that even though u are not an R34 die hard fan...u will be after owning one...

if u do find one...take good care of it so that the owner after u will appreciate it as well

as for importing... speak to Iron Chef Kristian. he's da man to go to...

[Sklyn]

In addition I must add that I found both my 33's on carsales (Have now bought 4 cars found on carsales.). Both well priced and very clean examples with documented history, so do look around as they are out there..

As for importing, well you might be able to save a few dollars or get a really nice example. However the delay in waiting and the potential hassle, for me, wouldn't be worth it unless buying a gtr. But by all means speak to an importer and see if there is anything on its way.

Don't be scared buying interstate either, just make sure you get it thoroughly checked out by a mechanic and an experienced/knowledgeable friend and do a revs check and run the numbers through the online checking tools. There's a thread here where you can get the vin put through FAST which will give you info.

Pretty much do some research, but beware that they are getting old and are typically given a hard life, and a lot of backyard mods, so expect the unexpected.

If you plan to track it and have some real fun, then i'd suggest trying to keep the other car just in case. Those walls can jump out at any time you know!! =)

[Lolrick]

Was genuinely hoping to have bought before the Supercars on the 6th December so I can take the car around parts of the track!

Now i've read in many places that the odometer is largely irrelevant - does this go both ways, where if the odometer is high, i should not consider it an issue unless most of the car looks in bad shape (seats, steering wheel, areas showing general wear and tear)

Found an R34 on carsales that is located in Homebush, but has 195k on the clock. Warning bells, or?

Probably won't bother with the import or interstate route, I'll just wait for something to pop up. Might consider it if my search is fruitless.

damn those walls (and gutters)

[Sklyn]

i kinda works both ways yes. higher k's like that can mean more likely to be genuine k's, but you still never know as clusters get swapped out for various reasons. So yeah, check everything else as you said, loose panels and dash can suggest they have been removed/replaced so even condition of replaceables can be faked.

Basically it comes to the overall feeling you get from all things combined (and mechanical report). It can have 300k's on it but if its been well maintained or rebuit etc there's no problem

The other thing is if you don't mind spending and working on it just buy a cheap one that looks good and fix it as it needs it. No matter how much you spend on buying it, you WILL spend more afterwards..

[Lolrick]

My issue is that I don't have any mechanical experience, nor the tools or social connections to really get into working on/building it myself. I've just been going through a few build threads, and some things you guys do is just absolutely crazy - some people just live and breath Skylines.

I more so want the driving experience, and it has been a long held ambition. It's the main reason i don't see myself holding onto it forever - frankly, if something goes wrong with it, I'll be left high and dry.

I'm really liking the silver GT-Ts with GT-R spoiler and wheels - pretty much exactly like this: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1998/SSE-AD-2304825/?Cr=14&sdmvc=1

Is there any way i can find out more about this owner (legally lol) as he doesn't appear to be a SAU member? The car ticks most of my boxes spec-wise, I'm just not sure (especially pre-inspection) about the overall condition. Are there any threads where we can post links to advertisements and have people give opinions based on what they see in the photos/description, or mention if they've seen the car in the flesh? Cheers!

[Lolrick]

So I've taken a few vehicles for test drives, how rare is it to have something drive in a straight line without any movement from the steering wheel? no pulling, no vibration etc?

[Sklyn]

not rare at all. Bushes are often replaced with ones that stop the pulling to the left from factory.

I'd be worried if a car couldn't drive straight and vibrated......(excluding general road vibrations)

you can put the VIN in this thread and ask someone to run it through 'nissan fast' which will offer you some information to check with the actual car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/page-196

[Lolrick]

not rare at all. Bushes are often replaced with ones that stop the pulling to the left from factory.

I'd be worried if a car couldn't drive straight and vibrated......(excluding general road vibrations)

you can put the VIN in this thread and ask someone to run it through 'nissan fast' which will offer you some information to check with the actual car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/page-196

Done

I've jumped on carhistory.com.au (and did so previously) but find it frustrating that they can never seem to find information regarding the vehicle. I rung them earlier in the month, a young lady with a British accent answered, she did not seem interested at all in helping me out. Ah well, such is the nature of imports.

[Sklyn]

did you put it in through their website and did it recognise it at all? or just say there was an error. Shouldn't really need to ring them, could try a different site too..

It will only be able to provide Australian info, but its a bit more safe guard against dodgy sellers.