Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Guru Needed For Private Sale Inspection Cash Cash Job

bcnr33-hks

By bcnr33-hks,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

bcnr33-hks Explorer

bcnr33-hks

Posted
Posted

hey guys looking to get into my first gtr coming from SR20det silvia's all my life. Looking at a R33 GTR series 3 v spec car in question

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-2464495/?Cr=1&sdmvc=1

went to have a look it seemed ok needs a little work but its refelcted in the slight negotiation. I need a guru to have another thorough look incase i missed something major.

I'm happy to pay you for your time to go down and check it out for me.

text or pm me 0406868688

Car is located in Adelaide brighton Area

bcnr33-hks Explorer

bcnr33-hks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Those Kms on that GTR don't really compliment the condition of that interior lol, looks like someones been eating the steering wheel.

yeah the wheel is DEf gone and will need to be replaced.....down the oil cap also looks abit sludgey

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted

It's possibly a big issue.

Age, neglect, hard use, a bit of all 3...

Take it down to Willall, and have them give it the once over. If the owner refuses, walk away.

trick Proficient

trick

Posted
Posted

doesn't look too bad, definitely needs a few experienced eyes over it, does need some lovn, but least it looks dirty and exactly how it is not all sparkly and clean then its suss as

I don't mind having a look over it, but just had a bubs so if you were looking at buying it soon you would have to bring it to me at Mawson Lakes

mike

ZED X Rising Star

ZED X

Posted
Posted

Really you need to get underneath this to investigate further. If i were you take a very close look at the vehicle yourself. End of the day you'll be the one maintaining it and only you can decide :)

When i was looking at buying my first GTR i had a look at a couple. The first was immaculate on the outside, as soon as i get beneath them things were alittle different. The owner was fairly hesitant to allow me to drive it onto a ramp which i found suspicious at the time. There was less then 100,000 on the Odo and that was clearly incorrect based off the under side of the vehicle. Keeping in mind you cant expect perfection these days. However oil/coolant leaks will only be visible from beneath the vehicle.

Most owners will go to the effort of cleaning an engine bay/exterior prior to sale but mostly neglect anything that's not visible. Specially beneath the vehicle.

However looks tidy on the out side, just take your time and pick the right one. hopefully its a great example :) Good luck!

ShyBoi Mentor

ShyBoi

Posted
Posted

Biggest thing to check is for rust on the underbody as if that's there like my mates, you won't past a roadworthy if its dodgy bodywork bog to cover it up and could cost thousands to fix.

As stated the underneath is where you'll see the biggest issues, oil leaks from sump or diff housings.

Check dipstick and see how old the oil looks if its serviced regularly, ask if timing belt, water pumps have been changed, seals around the head for oil leaks.

That's definately the worst steering wheel I've seen given its only 100,000kms, mines got 170,000kms now since I purchased it last year with around 130,000kms and still decent condition.

Mentioned cars been boosted, to what psi and who tuned it? Aftermarket ECU or just boost controller?

bcnr33-hks Explorer

bcnr33-hks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah the steering hweel and gear boot shagged...no ebc only boost restrictor removed.....having a guy doing a full vehicle inspection tonight doing a compression leak test....owner did say 100k service not done called JMS quoted around $2k for full 100k service which i will factor into negotiating price but wanted to do the gaskets turbo gasket etc which prob be another couple g's so it is slowly adding up

ZED X Rising Star

ZED X

Posted
Posted

Do the 100k Service yourself :) That'll save you $1500 out of that 2k you've been quoted. I'm sure there are many on this board that would be more then happy to lend a hand. I'dd offer but i cant claim to be an expert.

I used to get all of my work done by a local mechanic... before buying a GTR. That changed pretty quickly. You'll quickly become accustomed to GTR Tax :) Unless you have deep pockets!

bcnr33-hks Explorer

bcnr33-hks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Do the 100k Service yourself :) That'll save you $1500 out of that 2k you've been quoted. I'm sure there are many on this board that would be more then happy to lend a hand. I'dd offer but i cant claim to be an expert.

I used to get all of my work done by a local mechanic... before buying a GTR. That changed pretty quickly. You'll quickly become accustomed to GTR Tax :) Unless you have deep pockets!

lol your soo right ...i have wroekd on sr20's all my life and when i look at a rb26 im a lost fool lol and because i classy myself as a backyard mechanic and unlike sr if i stuff it up cheap as piss to fix or replace but rb26 is a total new ball game .....

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

thanks guys had a guy look at it and turned out to be a POS , low compression on 2 cylinders , been in a accident , brakes gone, weird noise at 9000 rpm's...i will be offering like $8k

Weird noise at above or on rev limit!
JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted

thanks guys had a guy look at it and turned out to be a POS , low compression on 2 cylinders , been in a accident , brakes gone, weird noise at 9000 rpm's...i will be offering like $8k

Did you have "Adelaide vehicle inspections" do it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ChrisGtt
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By ChrisGtt · Posted

      Hi All, New member here, I've joined to help my son with an issue that is truly doing our heads in. I'll start with a bit of an overview. Chris carried out some modifications to the engine to try and extract just a little extra power out of the motor and make it a bit more efficient. Previous to this work, the car already had an upgraded exhaust, increased boost up to 14psi, modified standard turbo to metal impellers and slightly oversized, upgraded fuel pump, been dyno-tuned at JEM, and some other bits n bobs like coil packs etc. Before the current mods it was making 236rwkw at 14psi but after the new mods it now makes 209rwkw at 14psi. The work he carried out is as follows, timing belt service, water pump replacement, return to sump radium catch can, had oem head rebuilt and machined 0.2mm, fitted Athena cut ring head gasket 1.2mm thick, arp 2000 head studs, added rear prp head drain, added an external wastegate 40mm turbosmart welded off the stock manifold and plumbed back into a 3in dump. The car has been on the dyno and apparently the ignition is working, fuel flow and fuel pressure is fine, injectors are fine, spark plugs are working fine, Maf is working, O2 sensor is working, TPs sensor is working, VCT is working, CAS is working, boost leak test showed no boost leaks, compression test first crank cold 135psi and got to 150psi across all cylinders once cranking, timing is confirmed at tdc with a dial gauge and the cam dots line up, no blockages in intercoolerm throttle body or pre-turbo intake, no blockages in exhaust, cat conveter or down pipe, turbo looks fine and spins and wastegate looks fine and is new. Soz for all the detail but after all this, it has been in 3 times for dyno and each time comes back stating it's not going to make power. After the first (or second, can't remember now) trip to dyno we did find the timing out by one tooth and this improved things, but it is still well down. Does anyone have any ideas?  Any replies much appreciated as we're just not sure of which direction to take this. Regards Rob (Chris's Dad).
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's just a gauge, with a certain amount of electronic damping, and no-one cares if it is timely-accurate. I'd hesitate to use it for an ECU MAP input without knowing that it was a nice signal. Responsive but smooth. Not laggy. Not lumpy.
    • Lithium
      Share Your Euro!

      By Lithium · Posted

      Took the dirty BMW to an actual drag meet so I could do a legit full pass on a sticky enough track and had a quiet goal to try and beat my PB in the old R33 GTS25t The time to beat:  R33 on stock RB25, Internal gate GT3076R on stock manifold tuned to about 17psi on BP98 and running on drag tyres: F20 M135i with intake, dump pipe and MHD OTS Stage 1 tune on street tyres - didn't even drop the tyre pressure: Kinda similar, and kinda way different
    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...