Jump to content
SAU Community

New Vi-Pec I88 Ecu

[200]

By [200],
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

I am in the market for a new ecu for a 2j motor.

Noticed haltech have a new ecu coming out towards early next year but unsure if I can be bothered waiting for it.

I have noticed ViPEC have a new i88 ecu which looks quite good.

Anyone have any feedback on this particular ECU ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435341-new-vi-pec-i88-ecu/
Share on other sites
ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

Vipec is basically a Link and i have been running Links for years.

Awesome ECU. Numerous motorsport options which are all unlocked, they only require a small cost motor sport harness be purchased, options of up to a 7 bar map sensor, runs well with the Ross Balancers crank trigger system

I see no reason to not use one ;)

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

Apparently, unsure how good or how different it is from the previous model.

http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/i88

ndividual Cylinder Knock control, with support for two sensors. Knock control is user definable with flexible settings to allow precise knock control adjustable by ignition angle
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah that is literally the only thing I dont like about the G4 is that there is no onboard knock sensing.

But I suppose it wont be hard to update in the future. Hopefully it can use the stock knock sensors. I kept these on the engine even though the Link doesnt support them, in the off chance that they would work later on

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

E85 - built in knock sensor :D

another happy G4 customer - first flex fuel conversion, first non-HKS electronics V-Cam control - pretty stout piece of kit :)

can't go wrong with the link/vipec's

G4 is brilliant, just depends on how many items you want to run off it. Flex fuel, crank trigger, wide band, oil pressure, fuel pressure... You run out of inputs very quickly.
NismoSTune Community Regular

NismoSTune

Posted
Posted (edited)

I used to run a vipec. trying to sell it and upgrade to a haltech. Better tech/product support.... that and there's only 1 vipec dealer out here lol and his tunes take me into the 10 and 9.8 AFRs...

Edited by NismoSTune
[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So a couple of features on this ecu that makes it a little more favorable to the haltech is the knock control and 4 temp sensor (have to add resistors to the haltech!).

However, mapping is a bit better on the haltech and i know i am able to change a voltage setting for the tacho output...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...