Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the market for a new ecu for a 2j motor.

Noticed haltech have a new ecu coming out towards early next year but unsure if I can be bothered waiting for it.

I have noticed ViPEC have a new i88 ecu which looks quite good.

Anyone have any feedback on this particular ECU ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435341-new-vi-pec-i88-ecu/
Share on other sites

Vipec is basically a Link and i have been running Links for years.

Awesome ECU. Numerous motorsport options which are all unlocked, they only require a small cost motor sport harness be purchased, options of up to a 7 bar map sensor, runs well with the Ross Balancers crank trigger system

I see no reason to not use one ;)

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

Apparently, unsure how good or how different it is from the previous model.

http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/i88

ndividual Cylinder Knock control, with support for two sensors. Knock control is user definable with flexible settings to allow precise knock control adjustable by ignition angle

Yeah that is literally the only thing I dont like about the G4 is that there is no onboard knock sensing.

But I suppose it wont be hard to update in the future. Hopefully it can use the stock knock sensors. I kept these on the engine even though the Link doesnt support them, in the off chance that they would work later on

E85 - built in knock sensor :D

another happy G4 customer - first flex fuel conversion, first non-HKS electronics V-Cam control - pretty stout piece of kit :)

can't go wrong with the link/vipec's

G4 is brilliant, just depends on how many items you want to run off it. Flex fuel, crank trigger, wide band, oil pressure, fuel pressure... You run out of inputs very quickly.

I used to run a vipec. trying to sell it and upgrade to a haltech. Better tech/product support.... that and there's only 1 vipec dealer out here lol and his tunes take me into the 10 and 9.8 AFRs...

Edited by NismoSTune

So a couple of features on this ecu that makes it a little more favorable to the haltech is the knock control and 4 temp sensor (have to add resistors to the haltech!).

However, mapping is a bit better on the haltech and i know i am able to change a voltage setting for the tacho output...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...