Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, it might seem like a stupid question but i was wondering would it be possible to buy a car at auction in Japan and drive it registered along the AH1 through numerous countries, then at the end of the journey import it to Australia but De-Register the vehicle at a Japanese consulate? Its not like im gonna do it next week but its something i really would like to do, something thats on my "bucket list" and abit of an adventure really.

For thoes who dont know what im talking about the AH1 is the Asian Highway Network 1 which goes from Tokyo to f*kuoka then continues through Busan, South Korea all the way to Kapikule, the sphincter of the universe before joining the E80(European Highway 80) all the way to Lisbon, Portugal.

There are a number of countries on the route which i would like to bypass the main ones being North Korea and Afghanistan so i was thinking driving to f*kuoka then shipping directly to Beijing and continuing from there.

Anyway the main question was would the car have to be de-registered in Japan or could i get a Carnet Du Passage(spelling?) and drive it registered then de-register at the end of the journey at a consulate then import to Australia.

Its a pretty long journey, about 20,000 klms till i reach the E80 then another 6000 odd klms along the E80 but as i sayed, its something on my "bucket list" and an adventure type thing. I might even try something simmilar to http://www.endurorally.com/pages/the-peking-to-paris-motor-challenge-2016 (although they use old cars on that site i'd be doing it with a couple of friends in something newer)

Thanks in advance for any replies.

The short answer is it's almost impossible to register a vehicle in your name in Japan without having residency there. It might mean applying for a working holiday visa just to be able to do it. I'd personally recommend doing the reverse run and buying something in the UK, which would be a whole lot easier. But yes getting a CPD carnet is the only way to get through all the countries. Make sure you sort your visas well in advance, as many of the east European countries time your visa down to the hour - not handy when you get a flat tyre (and in eastern Europe, expect to kill all your tyres, a second set of tyres, and possibly a rim or two).

Check out the Mongol Rally if you haven't done so already. We (Iron Lady imports, that is) sponsored an Aussie guy to do it, vids are here: http://vimeo.com/mandurphy/videos/all/sort:date

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
×
×
  • Create New...