Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic - Wrecking R33 Gtst S1.5 - Black


Recommended Posts

G'day,

Am interested in rear hubs with immediate brake cables.

How much with postage to Canberra.

Thanks.

FYI, I think you inbox may be full, will not let me send PM to you.

Hey mate,

Sorry, the hubs and handbrake cables are sold pending pickup. If anything changes I'll let you know.

Thanks for the heads up on the inbox as well! It's now clear for anyone trying to send pm's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate still got the centre console/handbrake boot?

Also what are you doing with the shell of the car?

Hey mate,

I've still got the center consol/handbrake boot.

The shell im still looking at selling once ive got a few more things out of it. Open to offers depending whats wanted left it it. At the moment there's fuel and brake likes, instrument panel, carpet, garnish trim etc...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Just back from holidays so apologies for the delayed replies.

- Front chassis harness is still available with fuse box.

- Confetti recaro seat is sold BUT other recaro is still available and I'll even take $150 just to move it.

- All brake callipers are SOLD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much?

I'm after $150 for the chassis harness with the fuse/relay box included. Picture below to confirm we're talking about the same harness (circled in red)?

It's in great condition except for 2 wires on the dash side that need re-soldering due to the alarm being taken out.

post-7819-0-39690600-1389601151_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-22186800-1389601234_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Odd question, which side does your brake master cylinder cable connect to? Need on that connects in the driver side..... Just the connector and maybe 4 inches of its cable

Cable??

There aren't any cables as such on the driver's side of the firewall. There is only an adjustable joining rod from the pedal to the cylinder.

Is that what you're after?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Am I correct in thinking that even if you flat a rear, you'll have to fit the spare to the front anyway? I'm thinking that the LSD will thank you for not inflicting a massive permanent speed difference on it.
    • Time for millspec wiring, MoTec electronics package, Bosch Motorsport ABS, let's goooooooo!!!   Maybe as @MBS206 suggested, just swap out those stupid blue relays near the ECU plug.  
    • My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can
    • Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it.  I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did.  Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use)
    • Now, thanks to sonicii, onto the uneven floor from a tyre sticking 100mm into the boot space. I looked into options to raise the floor to the level of the tyre, and ended up going Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). EPS is what I normally think of as polystyrene, the annoying tiny balls that get glued into a flat sheet but XPS is quite different, much firmer and doesn't crumble if you touch it with anything. I also looked at things like heavy duty seating foam but XPS seemed like the right way. I picked up 3x 1200x600x50 sheets for $40ea. Initially I was looking for 100mm sheets because I needed to make up a 100mm gap, but as it turned out 50mm was available, much easier to work with and made it simple to store the tools I used a simple 15cm foam cutter to make the shapes. With some practice I was able to make reasonably clean cuts but I don't think Clark Rubber are going to be calling me to offer a job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/405092315205?var=675175481574 First layer in place, 3 dimensions are tricky! Second layer in place, bringing it to level with the top of the spare Cutouts in the top layer for the tools With floor back in place, nice and flat with 100mm stolen but no real impact on usability
×
×
  • Create New...