Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went to a local tuning company today and asked them about doing some simple modifications to get up to 400-450 bhp, the guy insisted that I take the sump off and have it modified to 9/10 litres, and an upgraded oil pump at the cost of $3000 for both.

Is this what most others have done or is this unnecessary??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435540-r32-gtr-sump-upgrade/
Share on other sites

For street use and not rebuilding engine I'd say it's not necessary , however an unknown rb26 could last a few years or a few days just depends, i would place the 3k on bolt ons and tune and save for a rebuild which you WILL have to do one day. Give dvs jez a call he can do the work for you and won't tell you crap you don't need for what you will use it for. Search him on the forum or pm me I will send you his number

Scott

  • Like 1

For street use and not rebuilding engine I'd say it's not necessary , however an unknown rb26 could last a few years or a few days just depends, i would place the 3k on bolt ons and tune and save for a rebuild which you WILL have to do one day. Give dvs jez a call he can do the work for you and won't tell you crap you don't need for what you will use it for. Search him on the forum or pm me I will send you his number

Scott

Sounds like a much better option to me, I was going to get tomei fpr, tomei fuel pump, nismo 600 injectors, I already have power fc (not installed) has HKS oil cooler, mines dumps, veil side exhaust (may change) don't really like the look! Nismo button clutch, nismo shocks and springs, brembo brakes.

Not sure what else to get to make it a safe and reliable tune, ideas welcome.

Even though its not necessary for a street car, i cant see how they can do it for 3k, its a motor out job, dissasemble, machine crank for collar, (about $400 collar and macining), $1350 oil pump, allow $1200 for sump, baffles ,pickip and welding. Then you need restrictors, which is a head off job.

Even though its not necessary for a street car, i cant see how they can do it for 3k, its a motor out job, dissasemble, machine crank for collar, (about $400 collar and macining), $1350 oil pump, allow $1200 for sump, baffles ,pickip and welding. Then you need restrictors, which is a head off job.

Taking the engine out myself to save money but yeah it's a little more than 3k more like 3.5k

Where are you?

Performance Metalcraft do an awesome sump for about $1750 exchange. Oil pump, Tomei all the way. I wouldnt bother with anything else if you have the motor out and you plan on upgrading it anyway. Cheap security both the sump and oil pump are. We had a Trust/GReddy one break on us recently, thankfully it was caught at oil leak stage and not at complete destruction stage ;)

Cam gears, dont bother unless you have after market cams

Where are you?

Performance Metalcraft do an awesome sump for about $1750 exchange. Oil pump, Tomei all the way. I wouldnt bother with anything else if you have the motor out and you plan on upgrading it anyway. Cheap security both the sump and oil pump are. We had a Trust/GReddy one break on us recently, thankfully it was caught at oil leak stage and not at complete destruction stage ;)

Cam gears, dont bother unless you have after market cams

I'm in Ryde NSW, after thinking about it last night I'm going to get the sump and new pump, plus the 2860-5 turbos and fuel pump, and the company are going to make me a custom exhaust as well. Put the power fc in and a good tune should be good for 500/600 bhp

Are you upgrading rods and pistons? If not you will be soon, seems like a lot of work not to freshen up the whole engine

Well I asked the guy at CRD and he said that's all I needed to do nothing else, which I thought I would but he was confident everything else would be fine :s

OP, if I was in your shoes, this is what I would do.

Seeing that it's a street car ONLY, leave the engine in, put 6-6.5 litres in the sump and drive it (middle of the hump). I don't believe it's cost effective to pull the engine, sump off, pump, baffles then put it back in. You've just done a half assed job. If you're going that far you may aswell spend the little extra and give it a freshen up (IE Ring's and bearings. While you're there pistons and rods... Very easily get out of hand). We are now talking about a rebuild.

If and when the time comes, then do all the above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...