Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there i am basicallly looking at this as an upgrade rather then doing all the other mods and things to get better lock - then still having to do this at the end -

dose anyone have this set up in there car? any opinions thoughts? was it hard to install?

if the drifters have better options pls speak up - any help would be fantastic -

running a R33 gtst (boat) as they call it

http://www.garage7.com.au/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2952&category_id=616&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435545-drifttrack-product-question/
Share on other sites

its very expensive and personally I would not go that route, I use JDI knuckles in my r33 drift car and they will only cost about 220 if u supply ur own knuckles for them to modified and they are very strong not one has broken to date or if you dont want to go down the cut shut path you can buy the driftworks knuckles for r33 which is basically a full steel knuckle but again proce is aorund 6-700 mark but atleast its a full knuckle not a bolt on kit.

  • 3 weeks later...

My friend is using them up here in darwin on his 32 drift car (the one that is in the photos of garage 7's page).

He has no issues with them yet, and get some serious angle.

If you want i can out you in touch with him

Its expensive cause its all made from quality gear. Keep in mind that you get new tie rods and ends with it. It increases your track and camber also as well as increasing lock and improving roll Centre. So you can't compare them to cut and shuts.

I've driven the development car with these knuckles and its unreal also

  • 2 months later...

Hi there , This setup seems quite expensive , and also i think it may adjust the suspension geometry of the car , im not sure if that would make it better or worse to drive though... it seems that there may be slight steering bind at full lock too. another way to go about it is the cut n welded knuckles. for my C33 i got my knuckles cut and welded with the correct settings for the aikerman angle i wanted , and also got them crack tested. so far they seem great , a few other mods to get more lock are , Longer rack ends , Steering rack moved fowards , extended steering shaft with solid bush (for better feel through the steering) and extended LCA's. there is slight bind on full lock but nothing to durastic. on r32's you should extend your LCA's 15mm so that when you are on lock (or close to it) your wheel with weight on it has more contact with the tarmac. hope this helps :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...