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So i was wanting more boost and so i recently purchased a boost controller and boost gauge.

I fitted them both using the forums as a guide but there seemed to be a problem i set the boost controller to half turn when installed thinking i would see a increase in boost over stock but i didn't so i kept turning up the dial on the controller over a few days until the top of it came off and the whole time the gauge never showed more then 6psi.

So i triple checked all the tubes but finally took the boost controller apart and when i blew into it seems to leak air through where the dial adjuster is so i decided to revert it all back to stock i had kept all the stock tubing.

I was interested to see what the boost gauge would show on stock solenoid and instantly was hit with 10 psi and car was pulling how i wanted it to with the after market boost controller??

It defiantly wasn't running 10 psi before i put on and then took off controller. now i have no idea how it could be running at 10psi any one have a idea?

ive attach a pic of how i connect boost controller before i took it out.

post-128131-0-70931200-1385462000_thumb.jpg

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435562-please-explain-free-boost/
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you said you intalled both the controller and gauge, are you sure you werent running around 10psi before the gauge intall?

i mean did you install gauge, drive it to see what it was reading then try the controller?

with a fmic and full exhaust my car hits about 10psi then drops to 9psi

Hey Tim.

If you installed your manual boost controller as per the pic, then I'm not surprised it didn't work. By looking at the picture, there seems to be a piece missing.

Which forum guide did you use for the boost controller?

I'd had purchased one of these about 8 months ago:

http://e4eonline.com/VUL_MOT/NEW_BC/KIT_400.jpg

You seem to be missing the Tee from your install (by the way the controller is setup in the pic).

I didn't like the manual set up, as I found there was not alot of control when cruising if I wanted to put my foot down . Boost spike was a real issue, & I hit fuel cut twice.

I then bought one of these & have NEVER looked back:

https://www.gfb.com.au/products/boost-controllers/g-force-ii-electronic-boost-controller-by-gfb

I bought it off EBAY for about $280 from MRT Performance.

Fantastic, set & forget......

The install was pretty straight forward too.

I know the Jap ones are really good, but i cannot justify spending $700+ for a daily commute.

Check out the first link I put up. You'll see a small 3 way Tee. That has the ball & spring 'in built'. The ball & spring are on the wastegate side of the Tee (hence the arrow indicating the direction of boost pressure travel). The controller is essentially a gate that bleeds a pre-determined (by how much the adjuster is turned) amount of boost off, BEFORE boost pressure overcomes spring tension & the ball lifts off it's seat to allow pressure to the wastegate.

If you do not have the Tee fitted, it ain't going to work (as per OP picture).

The boost TEE is missing from the picture. I dont know if you can get those controllers with the ball 'in built' with the gate, I doubt it.

The manual set up I bought came with a note, telling me to ignore the arrow, as It had been incorrectly printed. Quality.

A quick blow into the Tee will tell you which way to install it.

Anyway, those gated boost controllers are pretty crap. A better boost controller/bleeder is the old way to do it if you want more boost on a budget.

Go & buy afew different sized T-fittings, experiment by trial & error, drill 'em out till you get where you need to be, with little boost spike! LOL :whistling:

Hi gavin

Thanks for all the info and help. looks like i have the exact style controller in pic you posted so i did have the t piece but didn't think i needed to use it. i used this link as a guide.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/185848-installing-a-manual-boost-controller/?hl=+installing%20+manual%20+boost

Ill try fiiting it again with the t piece but at the momment my boost gauge is reading 10psi. ive connected the gauge tube to the plenum shown in picture is this a good spot for a accurate reading?

http://postimg.org/image/a0beibky3/

James- im pretty sure i connected the tube from the waste gate which is the left tube into the controller which has the arrow saying to wastegate it looks like this http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p215/srhim214/RB25wastegate.jpg

Hey Tim,

Yes you do need to use the supplied Tee piece!

That first guide looks like it for an R33.

Follow the install guide for the boost controller & you should be right.

The position for the gauge is perfect.

As for why you have 10psi now, you might have a leak somewhere through your refitment of the factory setup.

My strong advice is to save up & buy an electronic boost controller. Its the best protection for a stock engine running close to the fuel cut without a fuel cut defender!!!!

So i found this diagram http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/rustyshackleferd/boostcontroller.jpg

and installed it exactly like that and took it for a spin and it boosted to 20 psi straight away with controller only on half a turn so i just put it all back to stock again check all the hoses and clamps trimmed a bit off the worn hoses to make sure theres no leaks went for a drive and it is still hitting 10 psi so if its not doing any harm im pretty happy just to leave it how it is but really want to know why its at 10psi unless i connected a hose up wrong?

ROFL! Yeah, they are a bitch!!!!

Remember Trial & Error.

OK, as for the 10psi, it's most likely a hose/fitting issue. Worst case, maybe the wastegate diaphragm wasn't happy with it.

I'd recommend sussing out the cause, just so you know in case of any further arising issues.

or start step by step elimination. run hose straight from intercooler piping to wastegate., see what minimum boost is there. a r32 actuator will give you about 10psi so maybe you have that installed? or maybe the one you have is faulty, have seen one on a r33 (should be about 5psi) running at 9psi...

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