Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 - Engine Light On

cabbie_bro

By cabbie_bro,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

cabbie_bro Enthusiast

cabbie_bro

Posted
Posted (edited)

Last Friday (after a shit ton of rain) I started up my Stagea only to find there is a engine check light just as I was about to take off. I believe the code before was 1122 (Throttle Position Motor - Range/Performance).

I got some electrical contact cleaner from Jaycar and gave the connector a nice spray and plugged in and unplugged a couple of times to work it in there. That seemed to have fixed it as I took it for a nice blat around town and didn't have a drama.

Today I went to take the car to an Auto Electrician because I just don't have the time at the moment to get the headlight's sorted for MVR (Currently low beam is HID), and the problem happened again. But no matter what I do I can't get it going again.

I cleared the ECU fault code and started up the engine - idled as normal - once I put my foot on the accelerator pedal the engine check light came on. I have uploaded a video to youtube of the fault code incase I am not reading it right.

I have also attached a pic of the pop up screen in jap.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G50VcSbFnTI&feature=youtu.be

WJXf5on.jpg

Edited by cabbie_bro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435633-m35-engine-light-on/
Share on other sites
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Have ÿou taken the throttle off, and had a look at it? Don't touch/move the throttle butterfly. It may well be clogged up with shit. It's always the plenum side, not the intake side.

The car does a throttle check every time the car shuts down. If it's not in spec, as in shit is preventing it fully shutting, it could throw a code.

cabbie_bro Enthusiast

cabbie_bro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Nah I haven't taken the throttle body off yet; will give that a go and make sure I don't touch the butterfly.

I guess giving it a good ol' spray of carby cleaner wouldn't hurt?

But yeah, once the engine check light comes on when you fully press the pedal the revs only go up by 1 line (prob about 100rpm). So it's not like it can even "limp home".

Edited by cabbie_bro
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Yep, but be prepared you'll have to do the throttle relearn after to get a decent idle. Use brake cleaner, it's a little less harsh than throttle body. People say they have a coating you can strip off with carny cleaner, the coating is suppose to prevent build up. I think it's kind of ironic tbh, since your in thereto clean the shit anyway. Coating doesn't work real good... :/

Instructions for the throttle reset on the internet. It's a pedal timing thing. Like the ecu lights.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

posting for the 11ty time...

Did you clear the fault code as well, and it came back?

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
DESCRIPTION
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connectorof accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
DESCRIPTION
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electricthrottle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning
DESCRIPTION
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON
Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, theheadlamp will not be illuminated.
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.


OPERATION PROCEDURE

With CONSULT-II
1. Perform EC-42, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-42, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Select “IDLE AIR VOL LEARN” in “WORK SUPPORT” mode.
6. Touch “START” and wait 20 seconds.
7. Make sure that “CMPLT” is displayed on CONSULT-II screen. If
“CMPLT” is not displayed, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be
carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident
by referring to the DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE below.
8. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Without CONSULT-II
NOTE:
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has a malfunction.
1. Perform EC-42, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-42, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE below.
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

can take multiple goes to get the idle to learn. Then again, if the throttle is fkd, then it probably won't want to do it. When you get it correct it is quite obvious - revs climb to 2000 - drop to just above stall, and then settle.

Looks like you might be up for a new Throttle body. Scotty will be able to hook you up.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

They do go occasionally, and as you mentioned, Nissan want drug money for them. 2K for that is a joke. They are available from China through the back door, and you can buy them locally for $300 odd I think.

cabbie_bro Enthusiast

cabbie_bro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Received the spare this morning from Scotty.

Swapped out the old one and performed a calibration as per PN-Mad's post - All seems to be well. I can rev it and no MIL light.

Popping down to the shops to grab a couple of new hose clamps then going to take the stag for a drive see how it goes.

cabbie_bro Enthusiast

cabbie_bro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok - Done some more driving and testing and I think the issue is an electrical short - which I think killed my last throttlebody.

I did some driving around and I can't explain why it died the time the last post of mine was made (was driving with no A/C - turned it on then 2mins later the engine light came on).

But I found a way that always gets the throttlebody to fault.

After clearing the last fault code:

  • I drove for about 22mins then I turned on the fan
  • drove for another 13mins then turned on the A/C (manual).
  • drove for 9mins then turned on Auto (Climit Control)
  • drove for 7mins then turned on the headlights - Fault came up straight away.
  • Cleared the code and drove for another 5mins, turned on the headlights - fault came up again.
  • cleared fault and drove for another 10mins, turned on headlights - fault came up straight away.
  • clearned fault and drove home (5mins) - everything fine.

I am going to take the car to an auto-electrician tomorrow and see if I can get them to see if there is a short somewhere (while leaving the throttle body disconnect so this one doesn't die on me).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • GTSBoy
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • GTSBoy
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...