Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello helpful people of SAU,

Does anyone know the correct torque for the lug nuts on the M35? The wheels on it are aftermarket 18”, not sure if that makes any difference?

Sorry for the noob question just about to set out on a long road trip in the stag and after losing a wheel on the last road trip I wanna be sure everything is perfect this time (provided no one tries to steal the wheels this time around haha).

Any help/pre road trip tips would be greatly appreciated,

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435648-lug-nut-torque-on-the-m35/
Share on other sites

I run aluminium nuts on my Riceline, so I give them 90-100 Nm, but I think steel nuts should be good for 100-110 Nm.

sorry this is the stagea section mate not skylines.....oh wait hahaahahhaha im kidding mate!

I have the rays duralumin nuts and theyre the shittest, theyre like cheese. The locking nut tool strips the nut.....not good considering price. TBH its basically for the brand/wank factor and serve no purpose!

I have the rays duralumin nuts and theyre the shittest, theyre like cheese. The locking nut tool strips the nut.....not good considering price. TBH its basically for the brand/wank factor and serve no purpose!

My experience with RAYS nuts has been different.

I got my RAYS nuts with the wheels I currently have second hand around April 2008 and the only issue I have had with them is apprentice mechanics cross threading them or using the wrong size socket on the rattle gun. Otherwise, since equipping them they have gone through many track days and wheel changes without issue!

I agree that they are for wank factor though... But the blue nuts on silver/blue wheels looks nice :P

My experience with RAYS nuts has been different.

I got my RAYS nuts with the wheels I currently have second hand around April 2008 and the only issue I have had with them is apprentice mechanics cross threading them or using the wrong size socket on the rattle gun. Otherwise, since equipping them they have gone through many track days and wheel changes without issue!

I agree that they are for wank factor though... But the blue nuts on silver/blue wheels looks nice :P

I would consider kics nuts next but at $200 roughly....hell to the no. I spent $50 and bought GKtech ones to replace the rays. I hope rays wheels are better than their nuts.

And alex im not a hardparker as much atm maybe when i get the car presentable. We all know you like a good hard......

...park.

Edited by Howaitonaito

What is wrong with the stock nuts? You going for weight saving? Better off taking a dump in that case. :P

I got them because because the stock nuts do fit down the holes in the wheels i had and the wheels i have now but i coulnt get a socket narrow enough to do them up let alone to undo them.

I bought a set of black anodised, splined steel nuts through Taleb Tyres on the forum for $40; they are a deep nut.

I ran tap down a couple of them, as they felt a bit gritty going on, but since then they've been great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...