Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have read many topics on grenading ceramic turbos when pushed above 1 bar etc. Wanting to prolong the life of mine, was curious as to how cautious I should be with my standard boost gauge reading vs dyno reading.

My r34 is running stock boost (without the restrictor)

Dyno chart shows a peak of around 14.5 (1bar) dropping to 13.5 at redline.

But my boost display reads quite high between (1.10 & 1.17 bar or maxing about 16.5-17psi) when i give it a bit of a hit.

Would I be better going with the dyno readings as a safe measurement as I'm sure the boost gauge display is less accurate?

I know the ideal win is going an EBC or boost control kit with the Power FC but want SAU opinions.

post-74132-0-21036200-1385683720_thumb.jpg

Take car to trustworthy performance workshop. Borrow their boost gauge (they'll have one they use to check other boost gauges against). Temp hook up, test drive, answer available in seconds.

In general, do not trust the dash boost gauge on any Nissan. It might be accurate. Or it might not.

Also in general, the boost sensor on a dyno should be accurate. But who knows in this specific instance? So check against a known good gauge.

Boost gauges, especially mechanical ones, are notoriously inaccurate. My first one was out 3 or 4 psi.

Not sure how strong the ceramic wheel on the 34's is specifically, but I ran my stock ceramic Stagea turbo at 20psi for 6 months with no failure. If the bearing is in good condition and the rotating assembly is balanced you should be fine for a while at least. Then Hypergear it. ;)

I'll be saving up for some -7's or -9's after Xmas, so as long as they hold out for a few months it should be fine :cheers:

Will hook it up to another boost gauge and have a run as well, see how much out the gauge is/isn't

Mine was running exactly the same on stock turbos (R33gtr) same dyno/tuner, except you made more power :P

Mine ran fine for a year till I hit the exhaust on something and it pulled it back causing the exhaust manifold gasket to leak then when -9s ;)

Also saw your car on the dyno looking good

  • Like 1

The 34 gauge is pretty good, as said you probably run my boost on the street due to different loading

The 34 turbos are different to the 32/33 one and a bit stronger, I run upto 19psi on my 32 turbos and have done so for 9 or so years, driving style has a lot to do with turbos exploding

On another note I have a APexi Power FC with boost controller for R34 GTR for sale ATM

A replacement stock turbo is only $400 ish anyway, I would just leave it and enjoy it as it is, I would trust the workshops gauge if they tune cars all day on it, I've never had a stock gauge that was remotely accurate (though this is in the older R32s and 33s, 34 might be better)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...