R33 To Rear Wheel Drive.

[TVIRUS]

I have a mildly tuned "600+@wheels" R33 GTR. Obviously I can't pull the fuse R32 styles to go RWD. BUT... It has an R32 gearbox in it. So. If I pull the fuse, given its a 32 box will it be rwd? Or is it still going to feed power forward?

[niZmO_Man]

R33 ATTESSA is different to the R32 one, irrelevant to the gearbox. IT still has preload, so best bet is to drop the front drive shaft.

[TVIRUS]

Cheers. Yeah that's what I figured. But better to be safe than sorry. Does great burnouts as is! Just keen to heat the tears a bit more pre launching.

[tricstar]

if it is a R32 box and the fuse is pulled so pump can't prime, it will be rwd just like an R32..

there is also another method outlined in the workshop manual which involves pulling the bleed connection, which is above your right knee when in drivers seat, then when you turn the ignition on press the brake pedal 5 times quickly and awd light will flash and you are in rwd...

either will be fine

or install Full Race ETS pro controller, has a switch, much easier

[TVIRUS]

Sweet. Guess the best bet is to pull the fuse and see what happens.

[r32-25t]

No that's the worst idea, pull the front shaft if you want rwd in an r33

[tricstar]

Putting R33 Gtr Into Rwd ?

check this link...its all been covered before..

[TVIRUS]

Sweet. Well the shaft idea works as we all know. But it's pretty hard to heat up the rears prior to a 1/4 in 4wd. I run achillies 123s and find them bloody great but way better with a bit of heat in them. I'm going to try the switch on the pump trick. Sound pretty ligit if it's in the manual.

So kick panel next to drivers feet.

Pump with two wires.

Un plug. Or use switch

Pump break until light flashes and stays flashing.

Rwd.

Turn car off.

Plug back in. Or use switch

Turn on.

4wd. Launch with hot tyres.

[tricstar]

pretty much, but the plug you are looking for is tucked up near the bonnet release. I've had 2 R33's and on the 97 series3 it was yellow wires white plug, but on my 95 it is yellow wire brown plug, its just a connector with one wire out either side..

[TVIRUS]

Ok sweet. Mines a 96 so could be either. So I put a missile switch in line on which wire? Thanks mate. Really sound advise. I don't mess with stuff until I'm sure I'm not going to kill my baby. First chance to do a ligit 1/4 this Friday night. I'd say it will get banned first pass though. She's not slow! It really shows it's power from 140+ and LOVES 250+. But... No cage.

[tricstar]

Go back thru that link I posted and on the second page there is pic of the connector you are looking for. Should be the brown one. Just replace that with a switch. Have a good read of all 3 pages.

Good luck at the drags. Let us know what u run.

[TVIRUS]

Cheers. Will do. It pisses in 11's but here's hoping for a ten. Big on drive it how it is on the street so sub and seats stay in...

[TVIRUS]

There is no plug with one wire going in each side sadly. I can't for the life of me find it. There is literally no plug. There is however a white plug with two yellow and green wires. Is that it?

[Hadouken]

The plug and brake trick is the way to go. Found it in my manual and have used it at Texis. Works like a treat and no problems thus far.

[KiwiRS4T]

There is no plug with one wire going in each side sadly. I can't for the life of me find it. There is literally no plug. There is however a white plug with two yellow and green wires. Is that it?

Probably. Just pull the plug out to see. The light should come on on the dash. then follow the procedure. If its the right one then just insert a switch in the circuit.

[R31Nismoid]

Cheers. Will do. It pisses in 11's but here's hoping for a ten. Big on drive it how it is on the street so sub and seats stay in...

You'd hope so, you only need 450-470rwhp in a full weight 33 to get in the low 11s and 120-124 mp. zone :-)

With 600+... Shouldn't even need to warm tyres, should just do it even with a average launch and tie power will sort the rest out