Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have this issue with my car when i go over little bumps. None can quite detect where the noise is coming from. I took it to where i got the car for warranty and pedders and they can't seem to find any issue with brakes or suspension.

Now i found this forum in america below (apologies if i can't attach the link here.)

http://forums.nicoclub.com/rattling-noise-over-bumps-from-rear-of-car-t426204.html

I think that is exactly what my issue is. I did a bit of research and found some clips and images.

I have a few questions?

If i adjust the nut does it affect my disc brake?

On the images i have found, it looks like a parking brake is a shoe type that is different to disc brake? so in other words if i adjust the adjusting nut to tighten it, it wont clamp my disc brake to the rotors?

Are the disc brake and park brake pads different to each other?

I have 2005 V35 and it seems pretty common issue for this model. It so annoying when you have the window down.

thanks hope someone can guide me. i have been driving this car for 2yrs now and the place where i got it from has no clue!

I have heard of this issue on the J31 Maximas, but not on the V35.

Parking brake is a totally separate mechanism to the rear disc brakes.

You only want to adjust the park brake cable to take up the slack when it is released to prevent the noise, you don't want the park brake to be held on slightly when the lever is released

With a noise like that someone has to pick up a screwdriver... Can you drop the disk off yourself and take a picture for us at least? I think you will soon find the issue once it is off. Not sure I would be trusting the park brake atm...

When i tried tightening the park brake cable (under the foot brake pedal) the disc brakes started to have uneven marks on disc rotors when braking. Unfortunately i dont have the tools or expertise to even play around with the removal of the rims.

Would i need powertools to remove and place the rims back on to make it tight?

If you don't have the experience or confidence to remove the wheels, please don't try working on your brakes - take it to a mechanic......

+1

What would you do if the tyre went flat?

I would be putting the pedal adjustment back where it should be, as the drum pads may be dragging constantly now.

can has NRMA membership? I will try to find a mechanic like Jax or midas or something.

+1

What would you do if the tyre went flat?

I would be putting the pedal adjustment back where it should be, as the drum pads may be dragging constantly now.

Ok so took the car to a reputable mechanic. hoisted it and said took the park brakes apart and said everything looks ok. They spent an hour and half trying to tap the whole car to find it. They said they can hear it but they couldn't find it.

I am wondering now if drive shafts makes rattle noise when it goes over bumps? (i muchly doubt it)

:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:

They would be able to find a driveshaft issue surely.

Where are you located? If you are in Melbourne I could get it on the hoist for a minute and check it out for you, just so you know what the issue is...

Scotty thanks for the offer man. But im in Sydney.

I figured it might be those. But the mechanic said its all in tact.

They tapped the car while hoisted but couldnt hear. However they hear when they are driving over bumps.

Pedders checked it already but couldnt here it when its on them suspension shaker. But can hear it when driving over bumps.

I figured if it was drive shaft they would figure it out straight away.

Should i take it for another nth time opinion? Wasting $$$ paying for no result. :wacko::wacko::wacko:

The noise is definitely coming from the inside of the disc rotor. I wonder if i need to adjust the park brake adjuster as well?

Wait.. if the noise only occurs while driving, and you can't hear it when tapping around the area or on a suspension shop 'shaker', how can you know that the noise is 'definitely coming from inside the disc rotor'?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...