Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey thats one of my special mods....don't give out all my secrets :) Good thing Shaun is doing some minor work to finish it....and NO we dont need to see anymore pics..:(

Back on topic

edit/ How about some photos of the 7 pages worth of problems wrong with your new paint job then, eh?...lol

not that much work.... if you just run a petrol rb20det you dont have to change anything. the cost and hassle of doing it would offset the cheaper price/litre of lpg. if it was an n/a v8, id say go for it, but not on an rb20det.

Slip,

It really depends on your plans later down the track.

If you are looking at doing the usual mods Powerfc, injectors, big fuel pump etc it will work out the same price to simply keep the stock ecu, slap a gas research carb in there and twin B2 gas convertors. Build the motor with a high static comp pump some nice boost in there and there's no reason why you won't crank 250rwkw on a RB20t.

The higher static comp on the rb20 will help out with the off boost torque and spool rate of the obviously large turbo.

Saying that though you would really have to look in to it properly as unexpected costs always arise. :D

http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0043&P=1

I've got a Zoom magazine here that has an old 250 XE Ford.

It is making 380rwkw with 1.72bar - GT40, 8:1 comp, 1 x 480cfm Gas research carb, 2 x B2 Gas convertors.

It also states that the 250 is able to take a lot of ignition timing - 22degree's with is impressive when you consider the boost and how volatile the 250's are in std form.

Running a near stock static comp for the 250 and running that much boost is pretty damn impressive. Any one who has fiddled with the old 250's will know how easy it is to get them to detonate.

If I were to build a rb20t on gas I wouldn't think twice about using a 10:1 static comp, a GT2535 pump the boost in to it and make a nice 240rwkw. :(

Would be quite a nice package. Hey maybe just use a RB20DE. :)

Some one willing to fiddle with a RB25DE or RB20DE to see how well it really works? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...