Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET

Changed out my series 2 motor with a series 1 motor due to a failing bearing. Motor is still physically okay, and running gear that has been removed is working

I have the following parts available. Pickup from Dandenong VIC or I can post at buyers expense.


Starter motor - $70

post-59604-0-71255100-1386481279_thumb.jpg

Alternator - $80

post-59604-0-92420000-1386481350_thumb.jpg

Power Steering pump - $80

post-59604-0-72985300-1386481400_thumb.jpg

Throttle Body - $80

post-59604-0-40746700-1386481459_thumb.jpg

JJR Dump Pipe to suit standard turbo (6 bolt Nissan rear) - $100

post-59604-0-81054000-1386481502_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-43354000-1386481535_thumb.jpg

Standard log manifold - $150

post-59604-0-61964700-1386481215_thumb.jpg

Standard RB25 blow offf valve $80

post-59604-0-42511100-1386481590_thumb.jpg

Timing Belt Covers Top & Bottom (painted blue) - $100

post-59604-0-91415300-1386481661_thumb.jpg

Fuel Rail - $50

post-59604-0-74704000-1386481707_thumb.jpg

Xtreme Heavy Duty Cushion Button Clutch (80%ish meat) & Pressure plate - $400

post-59604-0-66551600-1386481775_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-94193000-1386481804_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-57406800-1386481832_thumb.jpg

Coilpack bracket (S1) - $25

post-59604-0-78857200-1386481901_thumb.jpg

Coilpack harness (S1) - $40

Ignition Module (S1) - $80

post-59604-0-12586300-1386481963_thumb.jpg

Injector harness (S1) - $40

post-59604-0-55259100-1386482054_thumb.jpg

Crank angle sensor (S1) - $150

post-59604-0-66953900-1386482137_thumb.jpg

Oil Filter Housing [between block and filter] (S1) - $70

post-59604-0-64561400-1386482173_thumb.jpg

Set of 4 White Yokohama Advan TC2 rims. 18x8.5 +25 front / 18x9.5 +29 rear. Stud pattern 114.3 x 5. light weight 8 -9kg.

The front rims have Advan AD08 tyres 245/35/18 on them, the inside shows signs of camber wear so those tyres would need replacing very soon, however they still appear very grippy. The rear rims have Nitto NT05 tyres 275/35/18 on them which are completely worn and need replacing.

The front right has a small crack in the rim (on the middle part where the tyre is seated) which has just temporarily been repaired but will need a bit of welding. I got quoted approx $110 to have it fixed.

The front left rim has some light gutter rash on the outer edge of it, but it should be fairly easy to clean up.

Other then that the paint and rims themselves are in good condition

$1800

post-59604-0-41477300-1386482459_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-77908300-1386482489_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-13562000-1386482516_thumb.jpg

SMS me on 0458762075

Brent

  • 2 weeks later...

Have you still got the whole head ?

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

Hey mate, I just sent you a PM. I have it still. I sent my phone number in PM too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...