Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET

Changed out my series 2 motor with a series 1 motor due to a failing bearing. Motor is still physically okay, and running gear that has been removed is working

I have the following parts available. Pickup from Dandenong VIC or I can post at buyers expense.


Starter motor - $70

post-59604-0-71255100-1386481279_thumb.jpg

Alternator - $80

post-59604-0-92420000-1386481350_thumb.jpg

Power Steering pump - $80

post-59604-0-72985300-1386481400_thumb.jpg

Throttle Body - $80

post-59604-0-40746700-1386481459_thumb.jpg

JJR Dump Pipe to suit standard turbo (6 bolt Nissan rear) - $100

post-59604-0-81054000-1386481502_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-43354000-1386481535_thumb.jpg

Standard log manifold - $150

post-59604-0-61964700-1386481215_thumb.jpg

Standard RB25 blow offf valve $80

post-59604-0-42511100-1386481590_thumb.jpg

Timing Belt Covers Top & Bottom (painted blue) - $100

post-59604-0-91415300-1386481661_thumb.jpg

Fuel Rail - $50

post-59604-0-74704000-1386481707_thumb.jpg

Xtreme Heavy Duty Cushion Button Clutch (80%ish meat) & Pressure plate - $400

post-59604-0-66551600-1386481775_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-94193000-1386481804_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-57406800-1386481832_thumb.jpg

Coilpack bracket (S1) - $25

post-59604-0-78857200-1386481901_thumb.jpg

Coilpack harness (S1) - $40

Ignition Module (S1) - $80

post-59604-0-12586300-1386481963_thumb.jpg

Injector harness (S1) - $40

post-59604-0-55259100-1386482054_thumb.jpg

Crank angle sensor (S1) - $150

post-59604-0-66953900-1386482137_thumb.jpg

Oil Filter Housing [between block and filter] (S1) - $70

post-59604-0-64561400-1386482173_thumb.jpg

Set of 4 White Yokohama Advan TC2 rims. 18x8.5 +25 front / 18x9.5 +29 rear. Stud pattern 114.3 x 5. light weight 8 -9kg.

The front rims have Advan AD08 tyres 245/35/18 on them, the inside shows signs of camber wear so those tyres would need replacing very soon, however they still appear very grippy. The rear rims have Nitto NT05 tyres 275/35/18 on them which are completely worn and need replacing.

The front right has a small crack in the rim (on the middle part where the tyre is seated) which has just temporarily been repaired but will need a bit of welding. I got quoted approx $110 to have it fixed.

The front left rim has some light gutter rash on the outer edge of it, but it should be fairly easy to clean up.

Other then that the paint and rims themselves are in good condition

$1800

post-59604-0-41477300-1386482459_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-77908300-1386482489_thumb.jpg post-59604-0-13562000-1386482516_thumb.jpg

SMS me on 0458762075

Brent

  • 2 weeks later...

Have you still got the whole head ?

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

Hey mate, I just sent you a PM. I have it still. I sent my phone number in PM too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...