Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is cracking of the rear subfram a common problem for our cars? Just changed the drivers side rear wheel and noticed a massive crack, just above the driveshaft. Same on the passenger side.

Has anyone had this issue, if so, how much to replace the subframe??

Trying to get a hold of the previous owner but no luck. Will be contacting the RWC workshop asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436170-m35-cracked-rear-subframe/
Share on other sites

Dont weld it. Its the devils glue! There is nothing that sscchhdicky tape can not fix! (guido hatzis quote)

Let the baguette jokes and welding jokes begin!

Edited by Howaitonaito

Not fussed about price, the car was issued a rwc wen it clearly wasnt roadworthy. Previous owner had no idea either.

Small things werent done, cv boot and globes, was willing to let it slide because theyre easy fixes but after seeing the subframe this arvo im not even sure the workshop looked at the car.

Front pads are cactus, discs are glazed, front right cv boot is completely torn, number plate globes werent replaced AAAND the subframe is cracked.

Where do i go next? I want this all fixed, not by the workshop that issues the rwc and i dont want to pay a cent for the repairs..

Santa Claus by the sound of that. Your dreaming if you think a workshop is going to pay to do that for you.

Two options.

Weld it. The whole thing is welded together anyway.

Or

Buy one, second hand or new. Try 55400-AQ500. Sit down for the price.

It wasnt noticed. I only saw it because i had a flat in the rear. To the wheel off and its the first thing i saw.. spent all morning on the phone, just gonna swallow this bitter as f**k pill and fix it myself.

Not letting the rwc workshop touch my car again.

Trust me i spent the whole morning ringing vicroads, vacc, consumer affairs even the dodgey prick that issued the rwc. Its a shit storm waiting to happen and i really cbf dealing with it.

Its not the end of the world, swap the subframe, fix a few stupid issues get another roady bang, problem solved.

Shit happens, assholes cause it!!

But you must bring the assholes down like a bag of $hit! I wouldn't let the shop that issued the rwc get away with it. I love conflict and causing it. Bring the phucker down I say!

Oh back on to topic, get a replacement frame from Scott, I think he's swapped out quite a few so he'll be able to offer you tips and tricks too.

Its much easier said than done, if the last few years has taught me anything its that karma does catch up with you lol.. hopefuly he stubs his toe real bad!!

I love conflict to but its my car and i want it on the road asap, dealing with it like many have said isnt gonna achieve that.

Yep got onto the m35 bible with legs (scott), with any luck its sorted soon.

whats wrong with welding the cracks if its don't properly? The rest of the subframe has welds all over it!!!

I think i've had this agument before.........

+1. A quality weld job will be as good as a new one.

Any pictures of the cracks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.
    • From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)... 
    • Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/
    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
    • Verify it's going into each of the 4 gears in normal acceleration, make sure the torque converter locks up over ~65-70 kph or so at low throttle opening. If you ease into the throttle at those speeds eventually you should get a "gear" between 3rd unlocked and 4th locked. It should downshift eventually if you floor it at 65 kph too. Get some Matic D ATF and drain the pan, check for signs of sadness in fluid and drain plug magnet. Top off to the correct level afterwards. If the transmission is worth saving you can drop the pan on a second drain and change the filter while you're at it. These are not complicated transmissions, at least compared to modern stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...