Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 15/12/2013 at 12:08 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

Amon please PM me the brand of cat that failed.

  On 16/12/2013 at 4:06 AM, hardsteppa said:

I would like to know this too if you don't mind, I've used magnaflow 200c metal cats on two of my cars with no problems, and they're fairly cheap on the scale of cats.

While there may be issues passing emissions with a 100c cat, I'd much rather take my chances of "maybe/maybe not" passing a test, than certainly being screwed running no cat.

It was a magnaflow 100 cell 4 inch body cat, the cells were all folding over.

I know its not top line but they are very popular.

Would be keen to know of a proven one that can flow 400kw and not die..

Thought id post the brand up, not defaming, just stating my encounter

  On 16/12/2013 at 10:40 AM, abr33 said:

No idea, Im near positive it died at last track day though. Hot day, all running fairly hot, full boost regularly

Did you pull any timing out of it for the track day? I wonder if it is just a track day issue or tune issue around the area you drive on the track?

I have a metal cat so I am interested what leads to the failure on some of them as you describe.

I figure a lack of advance could lead to combustion continuing out of the exhaust valves and skyrocketing EGT's but it doesn't sound like it in your case.

  Quote

Im near positive it died at last track day though

yeah I'd be extremely surprised if a cheap metal cat like magnaflow would stand up to the high temps and rigors of trackwork, think that would be asking alot of them. Street shouldn't be any isssue though. I'd be putting in a 3in race pipe during track use myself.

  On 17/12/2013 at 10:23 PM, GeeTR said:

I know many who swear on SMB 4 and 5" http://www.smb.net.au/catalyticconverters.htm

Withstand hot rotarys

It would want to suck my cawk for that price. 3 times what I pay for a cat. lol.

  • Like 1

Any aftermarket car will be hard to pass EPA on 98, E85 would be easier as produces less NOx and other shit I don't know of lol.. I just I know it passes easily as my mate passed his 4G63T running E85 with a TD05, 272 cams, etc.. with DIY road tuning.

The reason I run a cat, is because I hate the smell of the exhaust, smells more pleasant with a cat lol

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/search/department/exhaust/part-type/catalytic-converters?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

So many cats... Even with shipping some are very reasonably priced. Why we pay so much over here is beyond me.

  • Like 1

What i ran for years without issues, even flaming exhaust so lots of unburnt fuel went through it.....

http://www.cateran.com.au/cateran/images/Racecatposter.pdf

Compared to a decat, i notice a slight power drop after 7800 rpm though to 9000 so not bad on the restriction side of things.

Only thing is the port for the temp probe is a diffrent thread so i dilled the old one out and welded my own nut to it.

I need to go for an emissions test to get my engineer cert and iv been told to get a euro 4 cat converter has anyone heard of these or what have people used to help pass epa? I'm running e85-90 2200 injectors 270 duration 10.5 lift ect.

Sorry for hijacking didn't want to start another thread

Euro 4 are the best for passing tests but also the most retrictive and the most expensive.

Most people use Euro 3 cats as they are far more affordable, add E85 to the mix and your sitting sweet.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-EURO3-Universal-Catalytic-converters-all-models-UNIVERSAL-FITMENT-/131059342207?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83bedb7f

However if your runing a ECU, cams and aftermarket turbos, ive heard bad stories about the Full called in EPA tests, where they ask you to bend over and touch your toes while they put the rubber gloves on.....

If its not the full EPA test and just your engineer and he is approving your mods your OK.

Ive spoken to a a few kit car builds who have failed their engineers test for using high flow cats, but passed using the Euro 3 ones on petrol.

Edited by GTRPSI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...