Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Neebo is nothing like the track. it is the longer high speed sweepers that cause the problem. The oil goes to one side of the sump and is held there by the G-Force so the oil pick up only breaths air not oil.

This is why I have only gone to Morgan Park in Warwick for track days so far. The track is more like a closed road than a race track. No prolonged corners or high speed bends etc.

GTRman1992 exactly what I've been told. You can never pull as much Gs on the road as you can on the track. But I'd really wanna be safe, so I popped the sump on to have peace of mind. Not really keen on 10 grand worth of damage.

John...yes I believe you have to pull the engine to get to the sump, not too sure on this though.

hey does anyone have any ideas or pics on what a good baffled or gated sump would look like or bits you have seen that are a good idea to inprove on?

I've got my rb25 in bits and just about to put it back together but would like to put some baffling in it as i will be doing a bit of fast driving even though its not a rb26 or gtr i'm guessing the rb25's suffer from this aswell just not as bad?

BTW aftermaket ones are out (i'm a cheap bastard :( ) and know a lot of people that can help with the fabrication.

Thanks

John

The trust oil sump increases the capacity and the sleeve around the new pickup acts as a baffle.

We put one on the Targa prepped GTR and had absolutely no oil surge issues.

The Jun one is just a baffle plate/windage tray and does not increase the sump capacity which is one of the biggest problems with the R. It is virtually the same as the Nismo one and all it did( yes, we tried that first ) was to delay the onset of the oil guage dropping.

My advice is if you are track running a GTR , have a very good fast reading oil pressure gauge with an adjustable red light.

I used that light to save my engine on a few occasions last year when I won the Enjo Speed Event Series.

Do the things Sydney Kid suggest but don't forget , they only have 4.5L std and with the std *oil up the top*problems, there may be as little as 2L left in the sump to run the bearings.

Cheers

Ken

well I would of never though that the R's were like that

another way you guys can fix the prob is running a dry sump set up if your going to be on the track a bit it is not a bad idea a few more dollars in it than $900 but yeah you get the benifit of running a supper cooling oil system & get ride of surge once & for all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...