Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a r33 gts-t at the moment and yes i want to make it a rb25de.

I have just found out that i have blown the head gasket, so i was just wondering if anyone would know if i can shave the head and run a thin head gasket to get the comp to at least 10:5:1 at least.

I have a powerfc wired up to my stock 25det loom already so thats why i was just gonna make this motor a DE.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436421-rb25det-to-rb25de/
Share on other sites

Prob a lot easier and cheaper to sell the motor as a det and buy a neo n/a motor, I wouldn't bother getting anything machined.

It can be done though, don't see why not, there should be a lot of different thickness head gaskets available for the rb25, just don't go crazy skimming the head, don't want to take to much off.

Prob a lot easier and cheaper to sell the motor as a det and buy a neo n/a motor, I wouldn't bother getting anything machined.

It can be done though, don't see why not, there should be a lot of different thickness head gaskets available for the rb25, just don't go crazy skimming the head, don't want to take to much off.

Its just would be better for me to keeep the det as i have a pfc already wired up to it. so i save money there.

I was just worried about clearences when i shave the head and run a thinner gasket and if it would make an issue?

By the time you're done what you're planning, you could have thrown an N/A NEO6 in there for less. I've seen good RB25DE's go for $500.

Cost vs. time. Remember that machining work and parts will cost you $1k easily. Pretty sure that you'll have to change the pistons to get it to the 10:1 mark.

these threads don't get locked on sight?

TL;DR, engine is incredibly low comp for N/A use, would need to be retuned, still run like shit, and depending on the state, still be illegal. Put N/A motor in or don't drive / sell / use as track car while on P's. Conversion has been done before, with the above mentioned results.

MBS206: you mean upgrade there pal

^^what a load of misinformed dribble, 9.0 to 1 isnt by any means "incredibly low comp" , it will run fine after a retune and it will be okay to run 91 ULP and wont run like shit at all

^^what a load of misinformed dribble, 9.0 to 1 isnt by any means "incredibly low comp" , it will run fine after a retune and it will be okay to run 91 ULP and wont run like shit at all

Been done before, runs like shit.

It's not just comp that's different, but cam profiles etc etc.

^^ yes I already know that it would need a retune (ive also agreed above on that point) 9.0 to 1 is plenty high enough for a na 2.5 litre and most other engines with efficient 4 valve and dohc designs heads. .engines can be de+t and det-t...

Im not arguing that its a waste of money. . . My point is that its achevable /doable

How will different cam profiles make it run like shit?

Cam profiles are designed pending certain applications, youll be completely changing how the exhaust flows and therefrore how the head and cams will breathe.

Kind of like shoving huge overlap cams in a V8 and then bitching the car wont idle like standard...

the engine is designed as one large system, that youre f**king with. It will drive, itll also make way less power than an RB25DE from the factory. There is a reason so many people have complained about driveability after doing this exact conversion...

^^hmm google must have it wrong then because it shows the cam profiles between the r33 rb25det and r33 rb25de are the same - 240 degrees duration and 7.8 mm lift on both inlet and exhaust

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, well, in that case, the suspension specialist is either a moron, or you aren't understanding what he was trying to tell you. Nismo arms are not really different than stock arms. Both are fixed geometry. I don't know if the Nismo ones are a little shorter than the stockers (or perhaps even a little longer) or the same length, but....if you swap from stock to Nismo, whatever happens to one side will happen to the other side. It will not cause it to steer left or right. That is unless you have adjustable bushes in your stockers, and they happen to be adjusted to dial out some bent chassis shenanigans. But, if that were the case, you'd just put adjustables in the Nismo arms anyway, because Nismo arms are essentially just expensive stock arms. And doing a wheel alignment is just a weekly thing in my world. I have had the suspension apart so many times this year that I've lost count and just about worn out a torque wrench. I'm out in the shed right now cutting up some alloy section and making bases for my new stringline setup. Got to make new swivel plates next, then I'm good to do toe properly, as well as camber and bump steer.
    • Yeah, nah. Not a thing. The gasket between the top of the plenum and the runners is far more likely to blow out when it gets old, and not really at ~14 psi. These things have been run to double that for 30 years without that being a common thing.
    • I plan to pull the intake manifold off and check the gaskets, i read that the block to manifold gasket can blow over 14psi and when i picked up the car it was set to 1.2bar on the controller. Send the injectors out for cleaning. Ill also pull the cam covers off and do an inspection, check some valve lash. Someone also said that the timing belt can rub or vibrate against the belt cover and make that sound. Definitely need to get an AFR gauge on it, if it was lean idling im sure it wont be happy
    • Well, it is an unusual noise. Use a 2 foot long bit of garden hose stuck in your ear as a stethoscope to pin it down to a definite location. We'll never work it out across the internet.
×
×
  • Create New...