Jump to content
SAU Community

Egt Sensor Systems , Whats Good For Rbs ?

discopotato03

By discopotato03,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi all , I've searched around to see what's available to suit an RB turbo engine . It seems you need the sensor and an amplifier box to change the signal output to 0-5V for 0-1000 deg C . I'd like to have this wired into a Vipec ECU so I can monitor it and maybe build in some fail safes .

I was thinking of mounting the probe into a steel T3 spacer plate and lining up with the cast manifolds divider to reduce flow losses - and avoid tapping into iron with differing expansion ratios . Also upstream of the turbine should read closer to actual EGT .

Can users report on what they're using please , cheers Adrian .

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

I'm using a VEMS gauge which have AFR and EGT display on one gauge.

I installed the probe in the turbine housing, right after the flange.

To my experience, if you want a precise measure of actual EGT, you'll need to use a reactive probe, which means a thin TCK (ie 1.5mm or smaller). Unfortunately these never last long on turbocharged engines with high EGT/backpressure and strong waves in the manifold.

I prefer having a more rugged (and less reactive) probe in the housing and getting some safety margin in the maximum allowable EGT when I'll get it tuned.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I also installed a 3mm diameter probe into a hole drilled and tapped in the inlet of the exhaust housing. Works well. I just used the sensor that came with a cheap Chinese/Taiwanese stepper motor EGT gauge. Has been in service for a couple f years and is fine. If teh probe ever dies, a thermocouple shop can sell me a replacement type k probe in seconds.

400°C idle, 500°C very light cruise, 600°C cruise with some extra load. 700°C a bit more load. 800°C, starting to get stuck right into it. 900°C - that's about as high as it ever gets.

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

I'm on the standard tune, lower boost and I have much lower readings in WOT. Mine don't even reach 800°C, its more in the vicinity of 750°C.

The rest of the operating range I get about the same readings.

On standard 98 RON fuel.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

BP98.

I am also on the standard tune, but running right up in the right hand corner of both the fuelling and timing maps because I have about 12 psi. I think the retarded timing in that part of the maps must be pushing the EGT up even higher than the rich mixtures are pulling it down!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I also installed a 3mm diameter probe into a hole drilled and tapped in the inlet of the exhaust housing. Works well. I just used the sensor that came with a cheap Chinese/Taiwanese stepper motor EGT gauge. Has been in service for a couple f years and is fine. If teh probe ever dies, a thermocouple shop can sell me a replacement type k probe in seconds.

400°C idle, 500°C very light cruise, 600°C cruise with some extra load. 700°C a bit more load. 800°C, starting to get stuck right into it. 900°C - that's about as high as it ever gets.

Exactly what I did, 1/8 bspt thread. And I see much the same temps in the turbo entry. My egt probe has been fine for 3-4 years.

I recorded around 100c difference between the manifold and the dump.

Running United ethanol btw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Shoota_77
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • The Bogan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...