Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know I will never see the money again but for personal reasons I am looking at more or less restoring an R32 GTS-t.

The car is registered and running but has been used as a daily driver and needs work in all areas.

In what order should the work be done? Is there a standard procedure? Should the respray come last?

And should the HICAS be binned as part of the work?

Any advice appreciated.

thanks,

Max

post-129946-0-55972100-1387278081_thumb.jpg

I am doing a 32 GTS4 currently. Ground up rebuild. Bought it in 2010. I started by stripping it, bagging everything usable up and turfing the rest. For me paint will be last. I bought all the new bits first and those will go on once the body is done.

How much money do you have to throw at this. I do nothing by halves and currently have 15k in NOS parts sitting on a shelf.

Link in sig if you are interested.

Rust will be the key problem in the GTS4. Most were used in snow so certain parts on it will have rust. Look at the sills on both sides and INSIDE the car .

Area where the fuel tank straps tie down will be the other area to watch.

Agree to start with basic checks on the chassis first. No point doing everything else first and then find out the chassis isn't viable.

It's best to break it down into manageable steps - both in terms of finances and time - so you don't give up (like most people do).

Thanks for the sage advice guys.

Having spent 30 years on motorcycles this is my first foray into cars so I know nothing and am no mechanic although I like to tinker.

I have some mates who are lifelong car nuts so will be chatting to them as and when.

Chris, I have started to read your GTS4 thread.

I am in awe. (Also a bit gobsmacked by the price of some parts) :-)

At the moment the car is being made roadworthy prior to re-registration.

In the new year I expect to have a budget of around $20K which will have to include a respray.

cheers,

Max.

Yep I tend not to do things by halves .

Parts on these can be cheap or stupid prices. The full set of door sealing is just under $2k for all 4 rubbers And the steel guides. The roof was a silly cost where as the washer bottle and brackets are cheap.

Agree to start with basic checks on the chassis first. No point doing everything else first and then find out the chassis isn't viable.

It's best to break it down into manageable steps - both in terms of finances and time - so you don't give up (like most people do).

Exactly..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...